Hi Everyone. Well, after 15 years the RV-Dreams Community Forum is coming to an end. Since it began in August 2005, we've had 58 Million page views, 124,000 posts, and we've spent about $15,000 to keep this valuable resource for RVers free and open. But since we are now off the road and have settled down for the next chapter of our lives, we are taking the Forum down effective June 30, 2021. It has been a tough decision, but it is now time.
We want to thank all of our members for their participation and input over the years, and we want to especially thank those that have acted as Moderators for us during our amazing journey living and traveling in our RV and growing the RV-Dreams Family. We will be forever proud to have been founders of this Forum and to have been supported by such a wonderful community. Thank you all!!
As a potential purchaser of a 5th Wheel and an appropriate pickup (TV) to tow it, I have the following question. A lot of posts say to buy the 5th wheel first then match the TV to it, ensuring that all relevant load factors are covered – GVWR, GCGVWR, RAWR, etc, etc. I have no issues with that logic. Other posts have enlightened me to a potential problem - the one where the TV is too high for the 5th Wheel’s hitch, causing damage to the TV, especially when making sharp turns.
Nowhere have I seen any description on how to avoid this situation. Is there a set of measurements that can be taken to ensure the TV will work with the 5th Wheel and ensure it will tow level (IE. front to back) and sharp turns will not cause an impact with the bed rails?
Obviously once purchased, you are stuck with both units and a mistake of this nature could be very costly.
Alan, the only way to make sure you will not have a truck bed rail to trailer clearance issue with the new (2011 and forward mostly) pickups is to put on a hauler bed.All the new pickup rails are tall and seem to be getting even taller.That said, it is possible to have trailers “lifted.” I.e. raised.Some do an “axle flip” which may or may not void the warranty.The right way is to have a steel spacer installed between the frame and the axles.This can gain 3 to 5 inches, depending, of clearance.However, one must be careful about the overall height of the trailer once this is done.13’6” is the legal maximum.Other factors in one’s camping style impact this height number as well.I’m fairly sure some will join in to comment about trees, etc.We’re 13’ 3” and its fine and we go in State Parks, etc.
I went through all these “measurements” a long time ago trying to have at least 6” of clearance. I found it was difficult to pick a trailer based on clearance. That is, if bed rail clearance is the determining or primary criteria then the selection is really limited.Therefore, if the budget and weight limits of the truck allow a hauler bed, of whatever type and cost one desires, is the best fix and offers many other advantages.Many say, “Just be careful.”That works till one runs the bed rails into the trailer on a turn someplace.It does happen and it is seldom “off-road.”
Do note, one cannot raise the hitch in the truck to increase clearance.The truck and trailer must run level for proper control and trailer wheel / axle loading.Raising the hitch in the truck beyond its proper trailer level running height is a bad idea.
I am going to be honest here and tell you I got all worked up about the bed rail clearance when I first bought the truck and placed a build order for our trailer. It was after I placed the order that I first became aware of this potential problem Some folks flat out told me I would need to raise my trailer with any new truck. I tried contacting the trailer manufacturer and the dealer to verify I would have clearance. They really did not help me any. Fortunately for us I had already decided on a Ford F-450, which oddly sits lower than the F-350. But I sure was nervous when we hitched it up the first time. Luckily we ended up with more than enough clearance on the bed rails.
All I am trying to say is that the makes and models are all different. There are trucks with higher bed rails and trailers that have a lower clearance and vise versa. Once you decide on the trailer, I suggest you join that manufacturers members forum and discuss with that group what trailer truck combo they are using and why or finding someone with your chosen trailer and talking to them about their specific TV.
-- Edited by Dave and Denise on Wednesday 14th of March 2018 08:47:13 AM
Bed rail clearance is not the problem with sharp turns/backing unless you are on uneven ground. The issue on turns is cap-to-cab clearance - and that has to do with the length of the bed and how far behind the back of the cab the axle and hitch are. The concerns about the heights of the new trucks are valid, though. About the only way to ensure that you don't have problems is to measure the ground-to-pin and ground-to-overhang distances on the fifth wheel(s) you are considering and take a tape measure to the trucks you are considering (factoring in some rear end sag for when you put the pin weight on the truck). My 2013 Sierra 2500HD sat at least 5" higher at the bed than does my 2012 F-350 DRW (both RWD trucks). The newer trucks have only gotten taller, too. As Ross Perot liked to say, "Measure twice - cut once."
Rob
__________________
2012 F350 DRW Lariat 6.7
PullRite OE 18K, Demco Glide Ride pinbox
2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes, solar, DP windows
I agree that an 8' bed is a requirement in most situations. A hauler bed would be nice, but not having won the lottery, buying a TV then swapping out the bed for a hauler bed would probably be too expensive. Is there a market for used TV's with hauler beds? Where would I look? Raising a trailer by flipping the axles or adding spacers is also an added cost. What are the 5th Wheel manufacturers doing to address this issue? Or are they pointing the finger at the automakers? Sounds like a no-win situation.
This might shift my focus back to a Class A DP....
I disagree. Buy or select the RV first then match a TV to it. Who wants to drive a dually around if it’s unnecessary? Dorky looking, hard to park, unfriendly on narrow USFS Western dirt roads.
__________________
Winnebago TT 2101DS & 2020 Silverado LTZ Z71. 300 watts WindyNation solar w/MPPT, 2 Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, USF&WS, NPS, TVA, state/county camps. 14 year Army vet-11B40 then 11A - old MOS 1542 & 1560.
Daily drive a "DUALLY" not -Dully- since 2011 only an issue if you make it an issue! "DORKY" ??? I guess so if you are only looking at the GM and Fords. Hard to park? Not really just need to be a bit creative at times. WSFS roads? Who cares, not me.
I have a Dually because that is what is REQUIRED to tow my 23K home.
Alan ... you are getting a lot of opinions here, some of which are not relevant to your question regarding matching the 5er to the truck. You expressed specific concerns about bedrail to trailer clearance. I have a Ford F350 dually and with my 5th wheel hitch hight set at 16" I have 7" of bedrail to trailer bottom clearance. I previously had a SRW F350 and with the same hitch hight (16") I had 6 inches of clearance. The pin box has some adjustment (1-2") and many 5th wheel hitches have adjustable heights. The trick is to get the clearance you want and still retain a level ride for both truck and trailer. In my case FWIW ... both trucks had acceptable bedrail clearance and rode perfectly level. The SRW truck rode level with no help (it was a little tail high so when the trailer was loaded on it it sagged into a level stance) ... my Dually needed air bags to get it back to level (it was level to start with and when the trailer was loaded, the sag made the truck tail low and the trailer nose low so air bags solved that). I am a dorky dually fan. One man's "dorky" is another man's "bad ass" and they work so much better in the towing environment. They handle cross winds and passing big trucks without being upset as was the case with the SRW truck I had. They do require more turning room and parking space than a SRW truck ... but you quickly adjust to it. I just park at the far end of the parking lot and walk ... the exercise does me good. I will tell you that todays trailers are built to be towed by todays pickups, so they are going to be pretty close as is. When you pick your trailer up, just have a discussion with your dealer that you expect the trailer to ride level with enough bedrail clearance and see if you can't talk them into agreeing to making the adjustments necessary to accomplish that. In your responses you said that you might focus back onto DP class A's. I would say that if you aren't "technical minded" then a DP might be a better choice. There is a lot going on when towing a 5th wheel and a lot to learn and understand in order to do so. A DP is a little less complicated than a 5th wheel when it comes to moving time. All of this is IMO, so just add it to your database. Good luck in your decision.
__________________
Ron and Janice
2016 Ford F350, King Ranch, DRW, 4x4, CC, 6.7 PS Diesel, remote control air lift system
2017 Durango Gold 381REF, Lambright furniture, MCD shades, morRYDE IS, 8K Disc brakes, GY G114 LR H Tires, 27,320 lbs CGVW
A well thought out response. Thank you. I have towed before - a 32' TT with a 3/4 ton Suburban - so I am not afraid of the 'technical' stuff related to towing, but with a limited budget, I am trying to avoid a costly mistake. Your response is appreciated.
The quote I used is from Danny and Cheryl, Cummins. I don’t alter quotes and don’t care about how they spelled dually. AlanB MAY want to drive Western USFS roads, so he can decide how adventuresome he wants to be. If you don’t that’s fine with me.
__________________
Winnebago TT 2101DS & 2020 Silverado LTZ Z71. 300 watts WindyNation solar w/MPPT, 2 Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, USF&WS, NPS, TVA, state/county camps. 14 year Army vet-11B40 then 11A - old MOS 1542 & 1560.
