Hi Everyone. Well, after 15 years the RV-Dreams Community Forum is coming to an end. Since it began in August 2005, we've had 58 Million page views, 124,000 posts, and we've spent about $15,000 to keep this valuable resource for RVers free and open. But since we are now off the road and have settled down for the next chapter of our lives, we are taking the Forum down effective June 30, 2021. It has been a tough decision, but it is now time.
We want to thank all of our members for their participation and input over the years, and we want to especially thank those that have acted as Moderators for us during our amazing journey living and traveling in our RV and growing the RV-Dreams Family. We will be forever proud to have been founders of this Forum and to have been supported by such a wonderful community. Thank you all!!
My DM2652 fridge stopped working in electric , works fine in gas. I watched the video on the element change because I thought that would have been the problem, not the case. I downloaded the diagnostic service manual and did a few electric checks,as follows:
1. checked 120V AC in
2. I hear my relay click when the fridge is turned on, then it clicks again to switch to DC because it thinks no AC available, opens gas solenoid
3. fuses are checked OK
4. heating element checked, approximately 44 ohms
5. I noticed that I have to wiggle the auto button a little at times to get the light to stay on
The one thing I see different from the manual is at the main terminal block. It says the control system will handle up to 6 AC volts on the DC line, and I have approximately 12. The manual says "If AC volts exceeds 6 on the incoming line the power source should be cleaned up" what does that mean? I am not sure if this is the problem or not.
