Truck size - RV-Dreams Community Forum

Ljbrandt · RV-Dreams Community Member

Truck size

Lonney Wade · RV-Dreams Family Member

We have a 2010 Everest 37 foot long weight is 14,000 pounds loaded. Also we have a 2010 Silverado 2500 HD diesel, had a diesel turner installed called Ezturner, man does this truck move, and pulls my shoulders back in the seat up to 85 mph, when I floor it, no more than 3000 rpms on the engine and at 73 mph gets 26 mpg, at 63 mph gets 29 mpg, (unloaded) and we will be putting on disc brakes on the trailer, had air bags put on the rear springs with wireless remote, is so cool can carrier an extra 5,000 pounds, made the truck ride so smooth, also had a 50 gallon transfer flow tank installed, just had a fold cover installed on the bed, also had a banks brake installed, I could go on and on the things I have installed on the truck and RV, we will do a YouTube video on all the things we have done when we hit the road, just waiting to get my driver's licenses back because of a 2 inch tumor removed off the right front inside of my head I had last year. We also installed a air ride 5th wheel hitch called airsafe, can carry up to 5,500 pounds on the hitch and can pull up to 25,000 pounds, I call this a mans truck with Amsoil in the engine, good for 25,000 miles. Hope this helps.
Lonney

-- Edited by Lonney Wade on Thursday 16th of July 2015 09:20:53 PM

-- Edited by Lonney Wade on Thursday 16th of July 2015 09:22:57 PM

-- Edited by Lonney Wade on Thursday 16th of July 2015 10:58:04 PM

The Bear II · RV-Dreams Family Member

You should be happy with either truck.... same for the 5th wheel either one is good as long as the floorplan fits your needs.

Terry and Jo · RV-Dreams Family Member

The main thing I'd suggest you watch for with the newer trucks is the bed rail height. Both Dodge and GM have raised their bed rail heights in the last couple of years or so, and that could cause a problem with clearance between the top of the bed rails and the bottom of the overhang of a fifth wheel. I know that a number of folks that have been buying new trucks are having 2-inch risers added to the frame of their trailer to keep the trailer level and give sufficient clearance.

If you are buying a travel trailer instead of a fifth wheel, the aforementioned comment is moot.

Terry

Cummins12V98 · RV-Dreams Family Member

Lonney Wade wrote:
We have a 2010 Everest 37 foot long weight is 14,000 pounds loaded. Also we have a 2010 Silverado 2500 HD diesel, had a diesel turner installed called Ezturner, man does this truck move, and pulls my shoulders back in the seat up to 85 mph, when I floor it, no more than 3000 rpms on the engine and at 73 mph gets 26 mpg, at 63 mph gets 29 mpg, (unloaded) and we will be putting on disc brakes on the trailer, had air bags put on the rear springs with wireless remote, is so cool can carrier an extra 5,000 pounds, made the truck ride so smooth, also had a 50 gallon transfer flow tank installed, just had a fold cover installed on the bed, also had a banks brake installed, I could go on and on the things I have installed on the truck and RV, we will do a YouTube video on all the things we have done when we hit the road, just waiting to get my driver's licenses back because of a 2 inch tumor removed off the right front inside of my head I had last year. We also installed a air ride 5th wheel hitch called airsafe, can carry up to 5,500 pounds on the hitch and can pull up to 25,000 pounds, I call this a mans truck with Amsoil in the engine, good for 25,000 miles. Hope this helps.
Lonney

-- Edited by Lonney Wade on Thursday 16th of July 2015 09:20:53 PM

-- Edited by Lonney Wade on Thursday 16th of July 2015 09:22:57 PM

-- Edited by Lonney Wade on Thursday 16th of July 2015 10:58:04 PM

Sure your truck will pull the RV just fine! But a 2500 with the weights you are talking is very scary! For one at 25% pin and that is easily obtained you will be at 3,500# pin weight. Also you said air ride hitch, I am sure that is at least 400# and then you mention a 50 gallon fuel tank that is at least 200# extra weight. I am sure you will have a tool box and tools at 300#. So right there you are at least 4,400# pushing down on your rear tires that are designed to carry about 6,200#, possibly less. That leaves 1,800# sitting on the rear tires before the RV is attached, I am sure your rear axle weight unloaded is more than that. Sorry but now you will need to add 19.5" tires and wheels or you will be blowing the rear tires in no time.

You are going to do what you want but I hope you think about these numbers and what they mean.

Mostly my post is meant for those looking for a truck to tow their RV or a future RV. Fact is it's a lot safer and easier just to get the right truck to begin with.

hasanchez · RV-Dreams Family Member

Great advise Cummins! Weight is WEIGHT.....not matter how much additional accessories you put on the Tow Vehicle. You're still dealing with the same tires and their maximum allowable weights. So glad that I'm on this website. When it's time for me to pull The Trigger (2 years from now).......I am sure going to be a LOT MORE informed and educated when that time comes!

Cummins12V98 · RV-Dreams Family Member

Most important thing to consider is what weight the truck can carry. MOST ALL the weight from the 5er goes directly to the rear axle of the TV.

Bill and Linda · RV-Dreams Family Member

Almost all trucks now run out of rear axle capacity long before they run out of the marketing “I can tow this much” trailer weight number.

Take a close look at those rear axle weight numbers. And yes, totally true, a 5^th wheel puts almost no weight on the front axle – nor subtracts any weight from the front axle – if the hitch is properly installed.

Also keep in mind that the badge on the side tells almost nothing as to capacities. For example, the Dodge 3500HD, the Chevy 3500HD and the F-350 have more rear axle capacity (RAWR) than the F-450 (pickup versions) (DRW trucks.) So one must look carefully at all the rating numbers for a particular truck.

Second Chance · RV-Dreams Family Member

The advice above is all good advice. A simple way to arrive at what you can safely (and legally) handle is this:

1) Fill the truck up and load everything you would normally carry in the bed while towing (this includes the hitch if you have it).

2) Go to the nearest truck scales and weigh the truck with all passengers in the truck. Make sure the front and rear axles are on the separate steer and drive axle platforms on the scales.

3) Subtract the rear axle weight (scales) from the rear axle weight rating on the door sticker - this is the rear axle payload you have left for pin weight. Be sure to subtract the weight of the hitch if it wasn't in the truck when weighed.

4) Subtract to total truck weight (scales) from the GCVWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating) on the door sticker - this is the total combined weight capacity you have left for truck and trailer. As Bill mentioned, you will run out of payload LONG before you run out of total towing capacity.

You can bag, tune, and modify a truck until the cows come home, but you can't change the ratings on the frame or brakes. You also can't change the legal limits for loading the truck - an important factor for insurance or warranty purposes if anything were to happen. As one of my flying instructors used to say, "There are old pilots and there are bold pilots; there are few old, bold pilots."

Rob

Trikester · RV-Dreams Family Member

My basic response: Buy more truck than the numbers say you need. Refrain from being a minimalist whenever it comes to pulling a few tons of weight behind you.

For example, if you want freedom to pull up AND DOWN mountain passes, you’ll want maximum stopping capacity, not just more than adequate rear axle weight ratings. You will want an engine/transmission brake, preferably a true Jake brake, to minimize wear and fade on wheel brakes. Plus, there’s always the possibility of trailer brakes failing, as well as the possibility of inadvertently hitting the top of a downgrade too fast. I’ve had the latter experience (quite the adrenalin rush) and have friends who have experienced trailer brake failure.

In other words, build a generous safety margin into your rig’s capabilities. Be wary not just of exceeding axle ratings but also of braking issues, because surprises will happen. Besides, as my dad taught me fifty five years ago, you will make mistakes along the way, so build in a margin for error.

Overkill trumps underkill. And I’ve never heard anybody complain of having bought too much truck.