... and the results are in:

as announced yesterday we had the sales team of the dealership do a squat test on the single and double wheeled new tow truck contenders this morning. Some called in sick, so it was only ten people in either truck bed, making the load an estimated 2000 lbs. We added a couple of cases of our favorite beer to add to the load - a much appreciated gesture. Everybody stuck to his morning coffee though

The trucks (3500 HD SRW, double cab, standard box and 3500 HD DRW, crew cab, long box) were parked in the service bay on a flat painted concrete floor, absolutely level. Here are the measurements taken under the 2000 lbs load versus unloaded:

SRW unloaded bedrail to ground at axle = 57", at rear end = 58". Loaded bedrail to ground at axle = 54", at rear end = 55".
Drop = 3"

DRW unloaded bedrail to ground at axle = 57.5", at rear end = 57.5". Loaded bedrail to ground at axle = 55, at rear end = 55". Drop = 2.5"

We measured twice to confirm the 2.5" drop on the DRW under 2000 lbs load because Red had posted a 2" drop only under a much bigger load yesterday. Why the difference? I have no idea other than either different ways of measuring and/or some deviation and measuring error due to the tools used.
However, under load both trucks sat at the same height at the highest bedrail point. Neither truck will allow us a level tow without modifications to either the truck or the trailer.

Here is our decision: we will go with the DRW and hitch up towing 2" (expected) nose high. First tow will be to a welding shop where a 3" subframe will be added to the trailer. Then we adjust the spring hangers 1" down, making the total trailer lift 2". If the nose high tow turns out to be 3" we leave the spring hangers at their position, thus gaining the full 3" lift. We will call Mor/Ryde first, if they will work with an already put on subframe when adding the IS or if they need to custom build one. Depending on the answer we might tow nose high for a short while and then plan a trip going through Indiana pretty soon. This might be the more economical option since the IS upgrade has an out the door  ballpark cost of 3000 USD, while the subframe alone will be just shy of 2000 CAD.
We are at 12'8" now with the trailer, making it 13'1" max in the future and could swap the 15" high A/C for a 8-10" low profile unit if we feel the need.

We already have agreed on a trade in value for our current truck, and a final price for the DRW after all incentives, discounts, fees, levies and taxes. Now we have the rest of the weekend to sleep over it, confirm our thoughts and conclusions before we will finally sign a contract on Monday.

While the SRW would have satisfied all requirements regarding any capacity we need for towing or hauling we went for the DRW because we like the idea of having an enormous safety cushion coming with it. The DRW will be at 60% payload when loaded with the dry camper, fuel and the two of us. Towing our Alpenlite the DRW will be around 50% of its capacity. We only came up with two cons regarding the DRW: no drive throughs (Starbucks or car wash) and parking in a big city. However, we don't eat out, let alone buy take out food or drinks. Also car wash is not important to us, most of the time it's done by the dealership when servicing the truck. For the big cities we will most likely rent a small car in the future, which will pay almost for itself by the fuel savings. We will enjoy the benefits of the DRW 85% of the time we use it either towing or hauling for little to no trade off in the remainder of its use as our get around car. Finally we will have little limitations when hunting for a trailer or truck camper replacement sometimes in the future.

Bernd&Erika

-- Edited by The Schweitzers on the road on Saturday 25th of October 2014 04:41:05 PM

Just one comment. You can tow 2" high in the front to Mor/ryde without an issue. As long as it is just 2" it won't be a big problem for the trip. I'd let MR do any adjustments as part of the suspension work.

Jack Mayer wrote:

---

Just one comment. You can tow 2" high in the front to Mor/ryde without an issue. As long as it is just 2" it won't be a big problem for the trip. I'd let MR do any adjustments as part of the suspension work.

---

 That's huge for me.. I just installed a tonneau cover and I lost almost 2"'s with the bolt on rails.. .. I was a bit nose high.. drove it 10 hrs w/o issue, but was going to lower it. Now i won't.. Good deal.. thanks for the post !

 

And 53 merc.. I can speak for me.. It was about warranty.. and that has already saved me 9k on a tranny swap..Although I expect I would have did it myself for 5k, if I had to pay..( expensive tranny )

53 Merc wrote:

---

Just gotta ask the question. Howcum a new truck is required? Problems? Excessive miles? or what? An 06 should be still good to go, unless it has 250K miles (or more) on it. Did the Joneses get a new truck and you are green with envy.
Gotta admit my 04 only has 124K on it and I have no intention of changing until it cannot do the job.

---

well, a new truck is not exactly 'required'. It's more like we want one. We bought the F350 used when we started RVing in 2011. It was not our dream truck, but it fit the bill. We had a few issues on the road, but nothing extremely expensive. The 6.0l has not the best reputation, but so far we cannot complain. Our mileage is exactly what you have put on yours now.
The main reason for another truck is the twisted seating position DW has to take in the passenger seat. The transmission bulges out where you put your feet and it is very uncomfortable for her to sit at an angle, unnecessarily putting stress onto her hips and knees. Isn't the saying "happy wife - happy life"? She is not happy now. Another issue is the noise, the 6.0l engine is not exactly quiet, particularly in tow/haul mode. Finally we feel the truck is at its limits when towing uphill at a more than 5% incline and I need to work the brakes more than I like when the downgrade is more than 6%. We are within all limits (confirmed by weighing on a scale), actually about 10% below any GCWR, GAWR, payload, tow rating, ... We crawled up Towne Pass in Death Valley (February) with open windows and running the heat full blast to help the engine stay cool at a pace of 20-25 mph and you could tell the truck would not be up for a bigger challenge.
When we decided to buy a truck camper this year, we were very limited in our choices (staying within the legal limits that is. Lots of people don't care and would load a 4000lbs camper on our truck without blinking). After camping with the TC during this summer, we know we like it a lot and we will continue truckcamping after the 2015 Alaska trip is over. A new(er) truck camper with more features and comfort will require a more capable truck.

Put the puzzle pieces together and you end up buying a new truck.

I wish you a lot of pleasant and hassle free miles with yours and save travels.

Bernd

Junkman-
Not hijacking the thread here, but since you are in Fl, why not see about getting weighed. Linda and Howard should be at the Tampa show or a representative that can do the individual wheel weighting should be. That will tell you if you are loading the rear tires too much or not.
If you are, there is, or at least was, a MorRyde installation facility in Fl that could make whatever adjustments needed.

Bill, On the Plug it Right website, where Dutch and Di sell the Quandra bigfoot levelers, they have info for installation in Florida as well as up north.
www.plugitright.com/BigFootLevelers.html

our Bull (aka F550 diesel dually) is a custom made hauler by bodywerks (see ad above), and we're very happy with it..

and it even has lotss of space for tools and stuff!!!

cheers

mitch

 

final update:

firstly, thanks for the clarification Jack. We will make the trip to MR a priority.

Secondly, we signed the contract on the truck today. A GMC 3500 HD, double cab, long bed, DRW that is.

At this point I'd like to thank everybody taking part in the conversation, thus helping us to make an informed decision.
Finally, I found a one ton truck challenge (comparison of the big three) that included a squat test. It's for the 2014 models, that's why I didn't find it when researching 2015ers.
Check it out.

http://special-reports.pickuptrucks.com/2014/08/2014-ultimate-hd-challenge-one-ton-overview.html

to save the reading, here is the result summary:

http://blogs.cars.com/files/hd_1t_allcharts32.jpg

you will have to enlarge it or use a magnifier glass to read it. Although a winner had to be named, the overall score was within a very small range for all three. So everybody has to look at the criteria that are most important to him/her.

Save travels

Bernd

Nice squat test, but I figure that's only 2k or so. What happens at 4k? 200lb per guy X 8, the lady at 150 x 1, everybody lies =

2000 lbs was our estimate as well. The drop was 2.5". Look up the details in the posts further up.

In my preliminary "final" post there is a link to 1ton truck shootout, that includes a squat test with a heavier load.

Overall, the drop does not increase much more once the overload springs engage.

Bernd

I realize that I am coming to this conversation late, but I figure there are a few of you out there that can add your thoughts and knowledge on this. We are in the process of shopping for TV and 5er (leaning Ram 3500HD with Cummins and Aisin; and either a DRV MS or Augusta Luxe) and have read several threads with concerns about truck bed rail height and safety. I saw the suggestion for Classy Chassis hauler beds and looked at their website and agree that it appears to be a nice option. Two questions: 1) what are the costs of a modification like this? 2) what are the additional pros/cons of a hauler bed vs standard bed with bed rails?

Thanks