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I bought one of these from a store up here. not exactly the same kit but very close. It's an awesome tool to carry around if you do your own maintenance(removing/installing wheels). The reduction is over 50:1....Loosen a 500ftlb wheel nut with about 10ftlb hand force. I did some calibrating/comparing to a 500ftlb torque wrench. I was needing to input 10ftlb torque to equal 500ftlb.
I use another brand and they are an awesome tool.
I don't see where you get the 50 to 1 reduction though. The ad says it is a 1.78 to 1. That would mean 281 ft pounds on the input.
Mine is a 3 to 1 reduction so my 500 ft pound lug nuts require 167 ft pounds on the input. I bought a 250 ft pound torque wrench to use with it.
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Clay (WA5NMR), Lee (wife), Katie, Kelli (cats) Full timed for eleven years in a 2004 Sightseer 35N. Snowbirds for one winter and now settled down in CO.
No.......You're reading it wrong. The one I posted shows 1:78, that means 78 turns by hand to turn the socket end 1 turn. The one I have is 1:55
There will be losses due to friction making the input torque vary slightly. Not exactly divisible by 55 to come up with the torque value. That is why I did comparison back to back with a 500ftlb torque wrench. I have other multipliers also like a 4 to 1 but that's more clumsy that this set up. The reaction lever would have to anchor to the ground. On the "Wheel Nut Tool" the reaction lever is the body that rests against the neighboring stud/nut.
Okay I understand.
The one I have does use a long reaction arm. I had to make an extension so it would reach the ground. The one you posted will be much easier to use. It also appears to come with an extension to reach the lug nuts. I had to buy a ten inch long one. Think I paid $75 for it plus I had to buy the 33mm socket for another $25.
I found that most - actually all of the four tire shops that do heavy duty tire work and the five RV shops I checked with had no way to accurately check the torque. They just crank the air impact wrenches up and go with whatever that gives them.
When I had my motor home tires replaced here in Grand Junction CO at a truck tire shop they had to use my tools to set the torque. The local Workhorse dealer would have had to use them too when they did a brake caliper recall but I had the tires replaced the same day and the drive was only about five blocks so I just drove it over.
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Clay (WA5NMR), Lee (wife), Katie, Kelli (cats) Full timed for eleven years in a 2004 Sightseer 35N. Snowbirds for one winter and now settled down in CO.
Yes this whole assembly is quite long so you don't need an extension. The extension you see in the picture is actually a piece of tubing with 1" male ends on it. All it's use for is to spin the nuts once they're loose. I fab'd and machined a special adapter 1" female to 1/2" female square drive to couple the torque wrench to it. My kit came with a 33mm and a 1-5/16" socket. I bought a 1-1/2" deep impact and machined it to proper length. Also bought the square socket from Snap-On Tools to drive the wheel stud adapter nut for the rear inside duals. All works pretty slick.
