Hi Everyone. Well, after 15 years the RV-Dreams Community Forum is coming to an end. Since it began in August 2005, we've had 58 Million page views, 124,000 posts, and we've spent about $15,000 to keep this valuable resource for RVers free and open. But since we are now off the road and have settled down for the next chapter of our lives, we are taking the Forum down effective June 30, 2021. It has been a tough decision, but it is now time.
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Thank you Bill, I did not know that part. I have always measured the Tow vehicle fenderwell height before hook up and adjusted the bars to get back to that height after hooking up.
Jim:
That method works fine IF the ball height is correct with the trailer in the first place. If the ball height is not correct to the trailer you will either be putting more or less weight on the front axle of the tow vehicle as well as the trailer's axles "depending" on if the tow vehicle ball height is high or low as to its proper height. (There I go using the word "depending" again. But it just is.) The goal is for the tow vehicle and trailer to run level - that assures proper weight distribution on all wheels. (Same is true for a 5er.)
As I say, this can be a very very big deal as to steering control if the front axle of the tow vehicle is not property loaded - especially if the front axle is "light" and "up." When you think about this a second I know you will see the point.
Bill
Edited for clarification . . .
-- Edited by Bill and Linda on Thursday 21st of November 2013 11:26:56 AM
If you are aware of this then just forgive the post.But the most important thing to do with a weight distrusting hitch is to have the ball height on tow vehicle correct. I.e. matching its’ height to the trailer receiver hitch.Otherwise the weight distributing hitch can’t work properly and you can have serious steering control issues. This is a major error in many installation.
With the trailer level and not connected you measure the height of the trailer hitch up inside the coupler area where the ball goes from the tow vehicle.Whatever that number is (its 19” on most Airstreams for example) you want the top of the ball on the tow vehicle, with the tow vehicle is loaded with fuel, you, stuff, etc., to be the same height as the trailer’s receiver.
Then, when you tension the bars with the trailer connected you will bring the trailer front - and tow vehicle rear - to a level condition.This will then properly distribute the trailer hitch weight over the tow vehicle and the trailer axles. It also keeps the front wheels of the tow vehicle properly on the ground for safe steering.This also reduces trailer sway when towing although you still need anti-sway bars / friction brake(s) / anti-sway system – whatever brand you choose.
Back about 40 years ago when I was taught improperly and to use a Jack Mayer expression: – “Ask me how I know this.”
Thank you Bill,
I did not know that part. I have always measured the Tow vehicle fenderwell height before hook up and adjusted the bars to get back to that height after hooking up.
Hi there, thanks all!! but going back to the origional post, does anyone currently use, reese straight line, or blu ox sway pro? curious as we are checking them all out. Thanks!!
The last one I used was the Reese........other than the brand name they are both similar but the reese has more features and add ons. Basically the blu ox was a copy to compete with reese
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Hi there, thanks all!! but going back to the origional post, does anyone currently use, reese straight line, or blu ox sway pro? curious as we are checking them all out. Thanks!!
Sorry, Michele, I sort of buried it in the answer.I used the Reese for many years on various trailers and it worked well. I have not used the other system.
However, and this is the point as to which is the best between your two choices: If the tow vehicle ball hitch height is wrong none of the systems will work properly, if at all, because of the potential lack of weight on the front wheels of the tow vehicle.Your goal is sway control and I was hoping to address that issue because it is one of the biggest issues with sway control for tag trailers regardless of the sway control system selected.
Another idea is to research the Pro-Pride hitch. Another rv site is My RV-Talk and the site sponsor is Sean. He worked as lead engineer for Hensley for years, then made a bunch of modifications to the Hensley design and improved the metals, etc, The system is expensive, but as I read the people that own it, sway is non-existent. Personally, if I were towing a tag-a-long, I would have one.
Had a wind issue once with a trailer, scared the bejeebers outta me. Then I went 5th wheel.
He worked as lead engineer for Hensley for years, then made a bunch of modifications to the Hensley design and improved the metals, etc, The system is expensive, but as I read the people that own it, sway is non-existent. Personally, if I were towing a tag-a-long, I would have one.
This wasn’t an option Michele listed, but I agree.If I were using a larger tag trailer I’d probably give strong consideration to the Hensley.They are a bit more expensive and a bit more trouble, in some people’s opinion, to connect. But they do control sway very well.
Thanks again gang for your imput. I know the equalizer is a good well
known system, but like the idea of not having to disconnect. The staight line dual cam seems to be more effective , same with the blu ox, but i see not many seem to be using that.
In the ideal situation Hensley would be great, somehow the funds just aren't there! ha
Also aware of the ball hitch height issue, have seen so many rigs that look all out of wack, as well as towing way too much weight to be safe(drives me crazy to see that).
.We have been doing "our homework" for quite some time, and do again, appreciate this forum.
Happy Holiday.. michele
When we were towing 31’ and the larger 34’ triple axle Airstreams we used two of these sway control bars – on each side – in addition to the Reese dual cam.They are easy to take off and install when hitching.We found them to be worth the small additional trouble and relatively modest expense.We used this system for a long time with good results with a correct ball hitch height.Still have them for the Airstream.
Thank you Bill for the input, and I am sure you have given many some ideas they had not known about. We are leaning towards Blu Ox, for the quiet and no need to disconnect, although I realize Reese is a good unit, with so much info to be had, will keep the search going. Again, thank you.
When we towed a 30' Jayco I used 2 Equalizers one each side. Be sure to disconnect them before backing in a campsite
or making tight turns. Ask me how I know....it wasn't pretty..
Wayne
We never disconnected our 24' travel trailer when backing in. On our longest trip, we drove from NC south and then across to TX then north to KS and never had any issues with towing even with the big rigs passing us. We drove mostly major hiways until we started north to KS. With the Equalizer, the tow vehicle (Ford Club Wagon - van) and the trailer operated like a single unit. We wouldn't consider anything else.
I am curious as to what you encountered especially since we were novices in pulling anything other than a pop-up.
Sway control is not a place where you want to cut corners. The towing set-up will greatly influence how you feel about traveling with the trailer/5th wheel. This applies to the tow vehicle also. SO many people end up leery of traveling when the set-up isn't right and give up the lifestyle. I have seen them so stressed out before getting back on the road. So well worth researching anywhere and everywhere to find the right set-up. Lots of info all over the web. I would always go a step beyond "adequate".
Not meaning to hijack the thread. I have contacted Equalizer asking about the back-up question for clarification.
-- Edited by SnowGypsy on Saturday 23rd of November 2013 09:57:31 AM