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Post Info TOPIC: CHEVY WORKHORSE OR FORD V-10 VORTEC ?


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CHEVY WORKHORSE OR FORD V-10 VORTEC ?


I am evaluating GAS class A Gasser RV's and would like anyone opinion on what the most preferred engine is.  For V10 or Chevy 8.1 or other engine. 



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Mike and Barb

2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37C with a 2008 Saturn Vue Taod



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I have owned both.....v-10 is a great motor and plenty of power...as I stated on another post and the V-10 is one of the ones with low mileage and seal problems.....when they sit they loose there valve seals it is a common problem and is an expected expense on older units with low mileage.

Chevy's 8.1 is also a good motor with the same quirks......both motors are gas-aholics if one prefers traveling over 55 or loves hill climbing...........I have an 8.1 now and my favorite thing to do is see how far back I can hold up traffic at 55 on the interstate....LOL


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 1998 ...Harney Renegade DP  class A

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My Service dog and life partner " Nikki"......Klee Kia Miniature Husky....(she Runs the ship!!)

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Is there any room for a Cummins?

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For Workhorse, the W2x chassis is much nicer than the P-series. It comes with an Allison transmission, does not wander so much and is a newer design. But make sure all the brake recalls have been done. We had a W22 on our 35' 2002 National RV Dolphin. We did add better sway bars and shocks to make the ride even better. The 8.1 liter engine was great. We passed many older diesel motorhomes going up mountain passes.

We do love our 40' 2004 Newmar Dutch Star on a Spartan chassis more, but it also cost much more.

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Lucky Mike wrote:

I have owned both.....v-10 is a great motor and plenty of power...as I stated on another post and the V-10 is one of the ones with low mileage and seal problems.....when they sit they loose there valve seals it is a common problem and is an expected expense on older units with low mileage.

Chevy's 8.1 is also a good motor with the same quirks......both motors are gas-aholics if one prefers traveling over 55 or loves hill climbing...........I have an 8.1 now and my favorite thing to do is see how far back I can hold up traffic at 55 on the interstate....LOL


 Based on this valve seal problem that could come up, I am looking at a 2002 class C with 10,000 miles. Any idea how much that would set me back if the repair needed to be done?

I am looking at this rig tomorrow, so I want to be able to take something like this into consideration.

 

Thanks,

 

Roger



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Roger that will depend on the region your in and your mechanic......

youll know it when you start it.....it will puff

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 1998 ...Harney Renegade DP  class A

rers1@mail.com

 

My Service dog and life partner " Nikki"......Klee Kia Miniature Husky....(she Runs the ship!!)

We are not lost in the Woods.....Just Extreme boondocking!!!!!!



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Thanks lucky Mike!



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if it will help ....parts are around 300 to 375 if its just seals.



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 1998 ...Harney Renegade DP  class A

rers1@mail.com

 

My Service dog and life partner " Nikki"......Klee Kia Miniature Husky....(she Runs the ship!!)

We are not lost in the Woods.....Just Extreme boondocking!!!!!!



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Lucky Mike wrote:

if it will help ....parts are around 300 to 375 if its just seals.


That at least gives me an idea of part of the expense.

 

Thanks!



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I had a V10 in an 2001 Class A. Only had it a year, put approx 11000 miles on it. No problems. I bought it new though. It had plenty of power.

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Rodger .....keep in mind it will be a blue smoke with bad seals.....normally upon start up and clearing ....and then when under a load if they are real bad.


dont think that all have this problem when you go to look..............any motor that sits can develope bad seals

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 1998 ...Harney Renegade DP  class A

rers1@mail.com

 

My Service dog and life partner " Nikki"......Klee Kia Miniature Husky....(she Runs the ship!!)

We are not lost in the Woods.....Just Extreme boondocking!!!!!!



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Start it up, let it get all warmed up and then stop, leave the engine running with someone in the driver's seat. With the MH in park with the parking brake on, have them step hard on the gas then quickly let off while you watch the tailpipe.

If all is well, you should not see any kind of smoke. If you see bluish smoke when the gas pedal is stepped on, piston rings are worn. If you see whitish smoke when letting off the gas, valve seals/valve guide problems.

Best bet is to take it to a good mechanic and have a Leak Down Test done on the engine. It will tell you the condition of the pistons, rings, cylinders, valves, guides, etc.

Best Regards!

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Wish I would have known this info. when I looked at it today. But no bluish smoke when I started it. This all may be a moot point as he may have it sold this afternoon.

So now I'm looking at a class A 2000 Damon Daybreak with a "Chevy 454 Big Block V-8 7.4 liter Fuel Injected GASoline engine".

 

Any advice??

 

Thanks,

Roger



-- Edited by rgrrmg on Sunday 22nd of December 2013 08:22:24 PM

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rgrrmg wrote:

Wish I would have known this info. when I looked at it today. But no bluish smoke when I started it. This all may be a moot point as he may have it sold this afternoon.

So now I'm looking at a class A 2000 Damon Daybreak with a "Chevy 454 Big Block V-8 7.4 liter Fuel Injected GASoline engine".

 

Any advice??

 

Thanks,

Roger



-- Edited by rgrrmg on Sunday 22nd of December 2013 08:22:24 PM


 

We used the Ford and Chevy in commercial service and found they were essential equal.  Never had any issues with either to speak of.  Both lasted a long time.  However, if the Chevy has an Allison behind it, many do, then that is the much better choice IMO.  We found the Ford’s extra two cylinders only served to use more fuel but made no extra power that we could actually discern and naturally two extra cylinders is more parts go bad.   But as I said, both were reliable.  The Allison is the tie breaker, IMO.

Bill

 



-- Edited by Bill and Linda on Monday 23rd of December 2013 03:49:26 PM

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Bill & Linda



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I'm a big fan of Allison as well.

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Full timing since 2/27/14.

Silverado HD 3500 4X4 Dually.

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