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RV-Dreams.com Home -> RV-Dreams Community Forum -> RV Maintenance and Technical Tips -> VERY Newbie here...
Post Info TOPIC: VERY Newbie here...
natemas


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VERY Newbie here...
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I recently was given an old Class C. The engine and transmission were completely redone, which is why I decided to take it. 

The inside is almost completely gutted. The previous owner started the restore project, but due to illness had to give it up.

I won't be living in it or anything, but decided I'd restore it best I can to use from time to time. 

I do have some construction knowledge, but have never had or worked on an RV. 

I hope it's ok for me to ask some very basic questions here? If not, I would really appreciate some advice on a better place to ask newbie questions. 

 

My first question is regarding the electrical system. I'm wondering if I can just use a power invertor off of the engine to run a few things while the motor is running/driving, and then just switch to the main converter when it's plugged in at a campground?

My thinking is that I would probably need to be able to run the water pump, maybe rooftop a/c, and fridge while driving. Can I just get an inverter to handle those things? 

If this is possible, any suggestions on how to handle the switching between the inventer to main converter when plugged in?

 

Again, really sorry for such newbie questions. If I should take these somewhere else, no hard feelings :)

 

Thanks!



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Lucky Mike


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the converter onboard and batteries already should be set up for the 12 volt system......an inverter can be added for 110 usage but normally requires aditional batteries added to do it correctly.

Running the rooftop A/C from the inverter is not feasible it would require a very large inverter along with a very large battery bank.....an onboard generator system would be what your looking for to accomplish this

A transfer switch is needed to go between shore power and the generator or you may install an outlet in the compartment for the shore cord to plug into durring travel or dry camping

enjoy the rebuilding....please keep in mind durring the construction phase you should use lightweight materials because finish weight will come into play as to loading and safe operation of the unit

good luck on your venture!!!!!!

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 1998 ...Harney Renegade DP  class A

rers1@mail.com

 

My Service dog and life partner " Nikki"......Klee Kia Miniature Husky....(she Runs the ship!!)

We are not lost in the Woods.....Just Extreme boondocking!!!!!!
natemas


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Hi Mike,
Thanks for the quick reply!
If I left out the rooftop a/c, would it be feasible to just run the water pump and a standard small fridge straight off an inverter?
Basically what I'm trying to figure out is a cheap way to run those few things while driving. Obviously once I'm plugged in, everything will be able to run fine.
A nice, quiet generator would be ideal, but quite expensive. I was thinking maybe I could just get an inventer to run the few things while driving.

I could get a used fridge that'll run off the lp too, but I haven't found a reasonable one so I was thinking I'd just get a standard smaller fridge.
My first thought was to take advantage of the "free" power from the engine.

Any other thoughts on easy ways to run those couple things while driving?

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Lucky Mike


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the rv water pump is 12 volt....(or should be) as far as running a domestic fridge onboard it would require 1500 watts (100 watts = 1 amp) at a minimum and that would require additional batteries or you will draw the chassic battery down qui could still be in their parking lot for dinner looking for a jump start

the alternator on your engine would have to be enlarged to carry that capacity on a continued basis.....a simple used 4000 watt RV generator available at most wrecking yards would be more cost effective for money spent in the short run......I also would check there for the fridge

__________________

 1998 ...Harney Renegade DP  class A

rers1@mail.com

 

My Service dog and life partner " Nikki"......Klee Kia Miniature Husky....(she Runs the ship!!)

We are not lost in the Woods.....Just Extreme boondocking!!!!!!
natemas


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Thanks Mike. I had a feeling my "plan" seemed way too easy :)
I'll try to find some wrecking yards around here (Southwest New Hampshire).

Anyone know anything about those Champion generators? They seem too cheap to be any good.



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Lucky Mike


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there are several around with coaches in them ....


Auto world in Raymond..Nh
Brandy brows in plaistow nh
GP auto wrecking in tamworth nh
tim & joni's in brentwood NH


Iv'e been in the Exeter area for 2 years now their is a bunch around!!!!.......I always go look for good pick'ens....LOL!!!!!!

__________________

 1998 ...Harney Renegade DP  class A

rers1@mail.com

 

My Service dog and life partner " Nikki"......Klee Kia Miniature Husky....(she Runs the ship!!)

We are not lost in the Woods.....Just Extreme boondocking!!!!!!
natemas


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Ok, so I literally stripped it down to the studs. I figured if I'm going to be remodeling it, why not start fresh. This allows me to set up the floor plan any way I want (and I thought it'd be a good learning experience...literally learn an RV inside and out).

I've put in a small bathroom, and have most of the kitchen area done. I'm happy with how it's coming along. I'll try to get some pics to show.

The electrical system still kind of has my head spinning. I have a Magnetek Series 6300A Model 6345.
If I'm only concerned with having things work while I'm "plugged in", do I even need batteries and a generator?
Are those only needed to operate things while "unplugged", or do you have to have a battery system set up to run 12V things smoothly?

Like I said, VERY newbie with RVs here, so I really appreciate all the help and input.
I'm definitely enjoying this project so far. I have a feeling it won't be my last!



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Terry and Jo


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Most RV's have both 12V and 120V.  For the things needing the 12V, such as lights, the battery is essential.  RV's come with a converter that takes the 120V from either a generator or shore power and keeps the batteries charged as well as power any 120V appliances or systems.  It can be interesting to be on 120V and have the power go off suddenly, such as during a thunderstorm.  Those items on 12V just keep on running while the 120V stuff stops.  We've had our 120V oscillating fan shut off but my lights and my laptop just keep right on working.

While a generator is not a necessity, if you are in an area where power can be interrupted for some time, or if you want to boondock, the generator is handy for a system to hook into to recharge the batteries or power the coach's 12 volt systems. 

Terry



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Terry and Jo

2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3
2008 Ford F450
2019 Ford Expedition Max as Tag-along or Scout

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natemas


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Thanks Terry and Jo.
It was my understanding that the converter puts out both 12v and 120v if plugged in. If that's the case, would you still need a battery for the 12v things?
Sorry for the basic questions, and I really appreciate the help!

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Terry and Jo


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Well, I'm not an electrician, but from my understanding there are two reasons for having at least one battery.  One is that when a converter is putting out 12V, there ought to be something that is receiving that voltage.  It seems that at one time I was told that one ought to have something either using that voltage immediately upon "generation" or have a battery to be charged.  Secondly, if you have a device like an RV refrigerator, many of those have a "control circuit/panel" (or whatever) that operates off of 12V, even if you are not plugged into shore power, such as when you are traveling.

Now, having said all that, I really advise you to talk to others here on the forums or with an RV tech to see if my comments make any sense at all.  I'm basing my electrical information on knowledge gained about 20 years ago when I was a manager of a major national electronics store.  Things very well could have changed since then.

Terry



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Terry and Jo

2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3
2008 Ford F450
2019 Ford Expedition Max as Tag-along or Scout

Our photos on Smugmug
Lucky Mike


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just keep in mind as you modify and rebuild this unit , as you change and add or do away with normal operating systems your resale value is going to go down drastically

the walls and such are built with components that equal the final weight of the vehicle.

Wiring is made and installed under national standards and configurations failure to follow these Result in "Hot Skin" people die every year Due to electricution from it

there is a reason why 12 volt & 110 are put in the unit in a specific way

there will always be your way and the right way.....these units are built electrically and structurally in a specific way so the unit can safely travel down the road......modifying them alot of times has a very bad outcome


__________________

 1998 ...Harney Renegade DP  class A

rers1@mail.com

 

My Service dog and life partner " Nikki"......Klee Kia Miniature Husky....(she Runs the ship!!)

We are not lost in the Woods.....Just Extreme boondocking!!!!!!
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