Hi Everyone. Well, after 15 years the RV-Dreams Community Forum is coming to an end. Since it began in August 2005, we've had 58 Million page views, 124,000 posts, and we've spent about $15,000 to keep this valuable resource for RVers free and open. But since we are now off the road and have settled down for the next chapter of our lives, we are taking the Forum down effective June 30, 2021. It has been a tough decision, but it is now time.
We want to thank all of our members for their participation and input over the years, and we want to especially thank those that have acted as Moderators for us during our amazing journey living and traveling in our RV and growing the RV-Dreams Family. We will be forever proud to have been founders of this Forum and to have been supported by such a wonderful community. Thank you all!!
I want more stopping power on steep grades. I was thinking of an exhaust brake but my mechanic is trying to talk me into a PPE programmer instead. He said it would provide a more aggressive tow haul mode and therefore use the trucks own engine brake. It's the $900 version but he is a family friend and is willing to install it for $500 out the door and the exaust brakes he said would be $600-800. Now, I am not a full-timer but we go the the mountains of NC a lot and through to TN also. Grades of 6-8% are not uncommon. My TT weighs 8000 lbs loaded not counting extras in the bed of the truck can add up to additional 1000+ And it's the truck in my signature. I am hoping you guys that use your equipment in a full-time capacity and probably hauling a lot more weight than I am could give me some suggestions. Thanks!
Go with an exhaust brake. Pacbrake, and several others are good. The programmer is using your transmission to slow you. It puts alot of heat in the torque converter and that usually ends up bad. If you didn't tow, then its ok, BUT as soon as you hitch up you need another means of slowing other than that Allison tranny. Most folks don't tow with programmers either. Without alot of supporting modifications a programmer can melt pistons, blow head gaskets, etc. Most programmers increase fuel pressure to the injectors but don't increase or decrease the injector opening timing to compensate for it. To much fuel = hot engine = expensive parts.
Now with all that said there is 1 programmer that is good for the engine, its called EFI live. Its not a program in a can tuner, but rather a custom built tune for your truck for the way you drive it. Its not cheap but well worth it.
Also upgrade your brakes especially those front rotors and pads. You'll be amazed at what a new set will do stopping at the bottom of a good hill with all that trailer behind you. (Even with good working trailer brakes)
I have EFI live on my Dodge and love it. It was custom tuned for what I do with the truck. I rarely see over 1250* EGT no matter what I'm pulling or how long I've been going uphill.
I would never install a gadget on a $12,000 plus power plant. If the Big three though a gadget would improve fuel mileage they would in a second install such gadget... I had the factory installed on the Chevy 4500 and now own a GM 3500HD with the exhaust brake, in my opinion the exhaust brake is a must. Haven't had any after market add on's as for a engine braking system. I did have a Freightliner with the 2 stage PAC brake system and I thing the GM exhaust does as good a job.. Good Luck with your choice. Happy Trails....
__________________
2012 Chevy 3500HD DRW's (SOLD)
Pressure Pro System (SOLD) Trailer Saver TS 3 (SOLD)
Now this one has the potential to be quite a thread – {Grin}
First, I agree with Jim – Don’t use a programmer for this purpose.
Nothing wrong with putting an Exhaust Brake on the truck. But, and you asked for opinions, don’t try to do this with a programmer.That’s not, IMO, a good idea to try and do “braking” with an engine programmer.Let the Allison be an Allison – it can take better care of itself if the settings are not overridden. Jim’s other comments are quite valid and the inexpensive programmer could cost you a lot of money when it tears up the engine or transmission.
Due to the vintage of the truck you can’t use the Banks Speed Brake product which is probably the best (all be it expensive) type of product for the Duramax Allison up till 2011.It actually is the same system used for years in the GM / Chevy 4500/5500 Duramax Allison trucks which has now been incorporated in the 2011 and forward GM trucks. But it takes a ’04 – ’10 due to the turbo design. (‘Short version explanation)So a Packbrake (or a Banks) is fine for the year truck in question.
My 2 cents and enjoy the NC / TN roads.I’ve driven them for years with my rig.
Sorry so late with response, but thanks to all that responded. I felt like the exhaust brake was the way to go for what I need but mechanic is into "tuning". Thanks for the info on the types and choices. I don't like to change factory settings ever. Now, granted there's nothing wrong with breathers and exhaust mods, IMO.
The GM company has put together a good combination with fuel mileage and SCARY power in the truck I have, so why mess with the best.
