Generator Positioning - RV-Dreams Community Forum

Loki · RV-Dreams Family Member

Generator Positioning

Racerguy · RV-Dreams Family Member

How do you plan to keep the exhaust fumes from getting in the trailer? Why the need to further quieten them with a sound proof box that will only over heat them? They are air cooled and need air circulation around them.

Terry and Jo · RV-Dreams Family Member

We have a Honda EU3000IS that we carry in our truck bed with two lockable cables that go the tie-down brackets on each side of the bed. I agree with George (Racerguy) in that the Hondas need to be out where the air cooling will work for them.

Also, not knowing where your RV's electrical connection is located, being in the front of the RV might require an extension cable for your electric. On a previous fifth wheel and travel trailer, we had to use the regular and one extension cable to reach the pickup.

If you have your electric in the rear of your RV, perhaps you could fashion something to attach to your rear bumper or receiver hitch to carry the two units. If you made a box of expanded metal, you would still have the ability for the cooling to work for your generators and still have a somewhat secure box for your units.

Terry

Loki · RV-Dreams Family Member

To me, it's not really obvious what the difference is between generators that can be built in RV's, like the Onan's, and the Hondas that I mentioned. It seems that generators which can be build into RV's must have some kind of (air)cooling and exhaust ducts. Also, I watched a video on YouTube about operating the EU2000i, and it seemed pretty noisy to me, like I didn't want to sit next to them having dinner. This is why I was thinking about some additional sound killing measures.

Terry and Jo · RV-Dreams Family Member

What I would suggest is to find a dealer and let them demonstrate the Honda, making sure they demonstrate the quiet mode versus the non-quiet mode. With our Honda EU3000IS, I can activate the Eco switch and stand within about 6 feet of the unit and have a normal conversation.

Not having seen the video you referenced, I wonder if it gave a demonstration of both quiet and non-quiet modes.

Terry

The Bear II · RV-Dreams Family Member

Loki,

The Honda 2000s are relatively quiet when compared to other generators.

I place mine at the front or the rear of the 5th wheel and when I'm sitting outside, I sit at the other end of the RV. I can barely hear them. If I'm inside the RV I really have to concentrate to hear the generators even at full throttle.

If I was to place them in my existing generator cabinet built into the front storage compartment, I would install a fan to help circulate the air. An exhaust tube to each generator to vent the exhaust out the bottom of the cabinet and to the side of the RV.

I chain mine up with a big logging chain and a one inch cable to prevent theft. I don't leave them out at night, I lock them up in my truck.

Jack Mayer · RV-Dreams Family Member

The above advice is good. You do not want to try to install/run these inside a generator compartment. They are not designed for it.

It is also not really necessary to try to quiet them down more. If you are eating outside, why have a generator running at all - but even if you do, you can simply pick it up and carry it to the other side of the the RV - even while running if you can handle the cord. I usually ran mine at whatever the cord length was away from the RV on the street side. It never bothered me. I suggest that you try it before taking "heroic" measures to "quiet" it. I'll also question why you feel you need two. Unless you KNOW you are going to be running AC routinely, I would suggest that you start with one and take a "wait and see" attitude about a second. Almost every fulltimer I know that has two never uses the second. There are some exceptions, but the only reason to have two is for AC. And people rarely need AC while boondocking, in my experience. There are exceptions, of course, but unless you know you are one of them I'd wait on that second Honda. JMO.

Loki · RV-Dreams Family Member

Thank you guys. Now I know exactly what I am going to do, which is stop worrying, buy one and wait and see. Great advice.

Neil and Connie · RV-Dreams Family Member

As others have noted here and elsewhere on the forums . . .the Onan's are pretty noisy and more expensive . . .so Connie and I will be going for the portable when we get our 5ver. We're thinking of starting with one of the 2000 or 2400 models and adding the second one if it becomes an issue.

We're wondering about gen prep though . . .since using the generator will require hooking up the cable and starting it . . .do we need to spring for the gen prep (I've never run across a decent definition for what is included in this . . .but usually it's the enclosed compartment and exhaust piping and maybe the transfer switch and auto start gear.

Can one safely skip the prep and plan on just plugging in the cable from the generator when needed . . .or is the transfer switch necessary? I'm guessing from my navy experience with power systems that the transfer switch is necessary only for auto start models so they come on when the power goes out and that it's unnecessary for a manual plug in start? I'm guessing that all I really need to do is run the standard shore power cable up to the generator and plug it in with the appropriate adapter (making sure not to run too many loads simultaneously of course).

Jack Mayer · RV-Dreams Family Member

Yes, you just run the shore power cable to the genset, and hook it up with an appropriate adaptor if required.

You don't need gen prep if you never plan to put in a genset in the unit. For a portable it would be a waste of money.

-- Edited by Jack Mayer on Wednesday 21st of December 2011 06:29:12 PM

Neil and Connie · RV-Dreams Family Member

Thanks . . .I'll save the cost and use the space for tools or beer storage or something.

Terry and Jo · RV-Dreams Family Member

Neil,

Ours circumstances are different. In our case we had an inverter installed and the generator prep. We have the Honda EU3000IS which weighs 150 lbs, so it will probably be carried in the truck bed. I saw another Mobile Suites owner that had a socket installed at the front of the trailer, just above and to the left of the front compartment door that was for a generator's plug.

Under those circumstances, it only takes a short cable to run from the truck bed to the socket on the front, which is then wired into the generator prep wiring. Otherwise, I would have to have an extension to go along with the included power cord to reach the truck and the generator.

If one has smaller, lighter generators, such as the Honda 2000's, then one could just carry the generator to the rear of the coach. However, from a story I heard once from someone who was out at Quartzite, AZ one year, thieves were riding their ATV up close to the camping areas via dry gullies and stealing the small portable generators.

Since my Honda is 150 lbs and can be locked to the tie-down devices in the truck bed, I won't be likely to have that problem. But, since I don't have one of those power sockets, I will be getting one installed in the front of the coach so I don't have to have that high-dollar extra power cable.

Terry

Neil and Connie · RV-Dreams Family Member

Terry, thanks . . .we'll most likely not get the gen prep then; since we don't plan on ever putting in the Onan we'll save the bucks and stick with the portable gen. We'll likely start with just a single 2000 watt generator; for that size we'll either take the gen out of the truck bed since it's pretty light and lock it to the trailer or if it's staying in the bed and the standard shore power cable is too short we can put an extension on it to reach . . .for 2000 watts the current will be low enough that we won't need a 50A capable extension.

Jack Mayer · RV-Dreams Family Member

I had my 2000 set up in my truck bed next to the hitch. It just fit. I had it locked down with a set of angle that I used to bolt it to the bed for transport. You could start and run it there, but if you ran it a long time it got hotter than it would like because it was kinda jammed in there. You need air space around it. So if you are running for a long period plan on taking out of the truck bed. Mine was simple to remove - I could do it in around 1.5 minutes.

I think your plan is a good one. If you are using it a lot you might consider having a secondary shore power jack added at the front of the rig. You can easily do that yourself if you are handy with power. You will need to add a transfer switch and put a weatherproof socket on the front of the rig.

Neil and Connie · RV-Dreams Family Member

Jack . . .thanks. I think I'll look into the price of the transfer switch and a shore power jack up front . . .if it's too much I'll just take the gen out of the truck bed when needed. It only weights 50 pounds or so.

You going to post details on your new NH on your site?

Jack Mayer · RV-Dreams Family Member

laubenthal wrote:
You going to post details on your new NH on your site?

Yes, but not until next year some time. The build has not started yet.