Hi Everyone. Well, after 15 years the RV-Dreams Community Forum is coming to an end. Since it began in August 2005, we've had 58 Million page views, 124,000 posts, and we've spent about $15,000 to keep this valuable resource for RVers free and open. But since we are now off the road and have settled down for the next chapter of our lives, we are taking the Forum down effective June 30, 2021. It has been a tough decision, but it is now time.
We want to thank all of our members for their participation and input over the years, and we want to especially thank those that have acted as Moderators for us during our amazing journey living and traveling in our RV and growing the RV-Dreams Family. We will be forever proud to have been founders of this Forum and to have been supported by such a wonderful community. Thank you all!!
The magnificent Mr. Toad - perhaps you could enlighten some of the "very sensitive bunch" as the the RV that you own - such as: type - make - model - length - year - # of slides etc-etc - also I'm sure some would like to know the name of the company you used to re-do (assuming US of A made) the interior and convert it over to the elaborate-posh interior that you speak of. It is information like this that can be helpful to others.
"I think the subject was brought up about the rear overhang of a Class C, which would not be an issue with a Class A."
Actually we have seen Class A's with lots of rear overhang. Country Coach made a 32' Diesel Pusher (DP) with about as much overhang as wheelbase. But Country Coach also spent the money and engineering on suspension enhancements so it drove really well. That is not common since most motorhomes with lots of overhang drive badly, especially in the wind.
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Bill Joyce, 40' 2004 Dutch Star DP towing an AWD 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Journal at http://www.sacnoth.com Full-timing since July 2003
rv.org feels if the wheelbase is less than about 58% of the total length you will have handling issues and less than about 53% or so is really bad (this is from memory but I think my numbers are close). The Country Coach had a wheelbase of something like 48 to 49% of the total length so I think the overhang was over 40% of the total length. There are two problems with large overhangs. #1 is handling but it can be cured with suspension enhancements which are available aftermarket for most problem chassis. #2 is when you turn the overhang swings over the other way and can hit something, like the car next to you. If it swings over more than about 2 feet opposite your turn there is a good chance you will hit something sometime. You can't do anything about #2 except be aware of it.
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Bill Joyce, 40' 2004 Dutch Star DP towing an AWD 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Journal at http://www.sacnoth.com Full-timing since July 2003
The magnificent Mr. Toad - perhaps you could enlighten some of the "very sensitive bunch" as the the RV that you own - such as: type - make - model - length - year - # of slides etc-etc - also I'm sure some would like to know the name of the company you used to re-do (assuming US of A made) the interior and convert it over to the elaborate-posh interior that you speak of. It is information like this that can be helpful to others.
rv.org feels if the wheelbase is less than about 58% of the total length you will have handling issues and less than about 53% or so is really bad (this is from memory but I think my numbers are close). The Country Coach had a wheelbase of something like 48 to 49% of the total length so I think the overhang was over 40% of the total length. There are two problems with large overhangs. #1 is handling but it can be cured with suspension enhancements which are available aftermarket for most problem chassis. #2 is when you turn the overhang swings over the other way and can hit something, like the car next to you. If it swings over more than about 2 feet opposite your turn there is a good chance you will hit something sometime. You can't do anything about #2 except be aware of it.
Oy - so many logistics have to into the planning! Is this turning also a problem with a fifth wheel?
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Cheryl B. in her new RV
(well, not new any more! Full timing since 6/25/14)
2008 DRV MS 36TKBS3 (the CoW: Castle on Wheels), 2005 Ford F550 hauler (the Bull)
Toad - just what do you rest your case on???? You seem to have left out the info on the plush rig you own - do you even own an RV? Perhaps your first hand depth of hands on knowledge could be of use to others????? Why not share - sharing is what this site is all about - we can all learn form one another.
Toad - just what do you rest your case on???? You seem to have left out the info on the plush rig you own - do you even own an RV? Perhaps your first hand depth of hands on knowledge could be of use to others????? Why not share - sharing is what this site is all about - we can all learn form one another.
How about getting back to the topic Mr RVPainter! This is not about me, but about giving some advice to a member.
-- Edited by MrToad on Thursday 5th of January 2012 03:12:31 PM
Toad - just what do you rest your case on???? You seem to have left out the info on the plush rig you own - do you even own an RV? Perhaps your first hand depth of hands on knowledge could be of use to others????? Why not share - sharing is what this site is all about - we can all learn form one another.
How about getting back to the topic Mr RVPainter! This is not about me, but about giving some advice to a member.
-- Edited by MrToad on Thursday 5th of January 2012 03:12:31 PM
RV Painter's questions are on topic since the title of this thread is "Any class C's good for full timing?"
Since your avatar is an image of a Class C, and you've made knowledgeable comments about the new Transit models for the Class C's, why is it that you are reluctant to inform us more of what it is that you own? After all, your choice might be just what an enquiring forum participant would want to know to make an informed decision.
Terry
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Terry and Jo
2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3 2008 Ford F450 2019 Ford Expedition Max as Tag-along or Scout
I have never researched anything more than I did with my research on my choice of the NEXUS Class C RV that I determined best for our needs and desires. It is very easy to see the Mr. Toad has done some research and I merely thought that the research he did that led to his choice of his RV might in fact be of use to other members. The exchange of information is so very important. Mr. Toad has certainly made some very pointed comments regarding USA RVs compared to other countries and I just thought it would be good to pass on the results of his research. If he has not bought or ordered one yet and is still in the research phase I wish him the best - it's a very long process.
My last question may have been missed (6 above)... I was wondering whether the turning problem mentioned with the wheel base is also experienced in fifth wheelers?
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Cheryl B. in her new RV
(well, not new any more! Full timing since 6/25/14)
2008 DRV MS 36TKBS3 (the CoW: Castle on Wheels), 2005 Ford F550 hauler (the Bull)
My last question may have been missed (6 above)... I was wondering whether the turning problem mentioned with the wheel base is also experienced in fifth wheelers?
Cheryl, I think you'd be talking about a different type of turning problem with a 5th wheel called offtrack. When you turn the tow vehicle the trailer will track to the inside of the turn. The longer the fiver the more offtrack you'd experience. I drove semi for 7 years and that was the biggest problem - not running the trailer tires over cars when making a left turn or the curb when making a right turn. Also, since the 5th wheel tires are closer to the center of the trailer you'd have to worry about the offswing of the rear of the trailer when turning a tight turn. Similar problems to a motorhome but a bit different because you're driving an articulated vehicle - one with a pivot point between the truck and trailer.
I'm sure Terry could also add to this comment having driven tractor trailer himself.
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Ron and Joan 2005 Itasca Sunova 34A 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
I have to say that I'm worried about making turns with our 31' MH plus the Honda in tow. I dread hearing "You just crushed that car waiting to turn!!!"
If anyone has suggestions re: turning right and left - my ears are perked up to full volume!
Escapees runs a driving course in Texas and some frieght companies do also.
A lot to think about - I know I'm going to CREEP around corners - checking the mirrors and the rear view camera a lot! I may ask my DW to get out and stop traffic :>)
Before this, our car was a Mini Cooper - can''t get much smaller!!!!!
I have to say that I'm worried about making turns with our 31' MH plus the Honda in tow. I dread hearing "You just crushed that car waiting to turn!!!"
If anyone has suggestions re: turning right and left - my ears are perked up to full volume!
Escapees runs a driving course in Texas and some frieght companies do also.
A lot to think about - I know I'm going to CREEP around corners - checking the mirrors and the rear view camera a lot! I may ask my DW to get out and stop traffic :>)
Before this, our car was a Mini Cooper - can''t get much smaller!!!!!
Awww... you'll get the hang of it after just a few miles! Actually, the Honda will track pretty much behind the motorhome without a lot of tracking to the inside of the turn. It's narrower than the motorhome too. Just don't turn so tight that the car hits the motorhome!
Speaking of towing a car... do NOT forget that you can not back up!!! Even backing up a few inches can bend or break the tow bar or base plate.
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Ron and Joan 2005 Itasca Sunova 34A 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
Thanks RvRon - no backing up will be a golden rule!! :>) By the way we have 1,200 miles on the Honda Fit now and love it - thanks again for the great tip!
RVRon described it pretty well with a fifth wheel. Since the wheels on a trailer track to the inside of the track of the truck, any swing in the rear of the coach has a tendency to still be within the lane of the road. That is because as the trailer tracks towards the curb in a right turn, it brings the whole trailer to the right, thus allowing for the "tail swing" at the rear.
If you can, watch sometime as a truck and fifth wheel (or any other type RV) makes a turn. Then you can get an idea of how much each type will swing. If nothing else, just drive out to a RV park and watch there as they maneuver around in the park.
An 18-wheeler is different in that the rear wheels of the trailer are usually near the back of the trailer. At least they were on the trailers that I pulled. That is why you will see truckers even take up the space in two lanes to make their right turns. Those tires being further back require that there be more "space" to allow for that tracking of the wheels toward the direction of the turn.
It all works the same in a left turn with a trailer. As one turns the corner, one has to bear some to the right going into the new lanes after the turn to avoid the trailer hitting any vehicles waiting in the lane adjacent to the lane. If there are two lanes that can turn, I generally try to be in the right lane so I have more space to correct to my right.
But in reality, it isn't really that hard to get used to handling just about any RV. For those that are looking at Class C RV's, I sometimes recommend they find a friend who has a truck like a U-haul rental truck, or actually rent a U-haul for a few hours just to get a feel for that kind of vehicle.
Now, if you want to test out a Class C, check out the dealers in your area. It is likely that if you explain that you are seriously considering a Class C, but are concerned with the turning, I would imagine they would let you test drive one, even if it was only on their lot. In our research for an RV, one of the dealers we worked with let us drive a couple of Class A Tiffin Phaetons (40' and 42') up to a couple hundred miles as a test drive.
Terry
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Friday 6th of January 2012 07:38:12 AM
-- Edited by Terry and Jo on Friday 6th of January 2012 06:56:23 PM
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Terry and Jo
2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3 2008 Ford F450 2019 Ford Expedition Max as Tag-along or Scout
With our 5'er, I do watch for tailswing when turning sharply at low speeds. Pulling away from fuel pumps is an example! After awhile it becomes second nature tough. I have seen alot of Class C's with skate wheels hanging off the rear bumper. It looks like the lower slung suspension models may have more problem scraping on driveways. By seeing what others here have bought or are buying- RVpainter's new Nexus for example, There are no "Bad" RV's. You just have to find what you need, want and can afford. That Nexus is a saaweeettt RV.
Your toad will follow the rear of the RV almost exactly.
Tough=though!!
-- Edited by Jims carrilite on Friday 6th of January 2012 05:42:36 PM
With our 5'er, I do watch for tailswing when turning sharply at low speeds. Pulling away from fuel pumps is an example! After awhile it becomes second nature tough. I have seen alot of Class C's with skate wheels hanging off the rear bumper. It looks like the lower slung suspension models may have more problem scraping on driveways.
That brings up an excellent point about scraping the tail on dips. We used to pull a trailer with our Jeep aboard and it required a drop hitch to keep the tongue of the trailer low enough so the tail of the trailer didn't scrape. We got into a situation in Georgia pulling into a gas station where the road sloped downward and then the gas station driveway sloped upward. The tongue of the trailer and the drop hitch came in contact with the road when the RV started uphill into the driveway and we almost got stuck! Fortunately I knew what was happening and gunned the RV and got us through. It sure would have been an embarassing moment to be stuck there with the RV drive wheels not in contact with the ground!
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Ron and Joan 2005 Itasca Sunova 34A 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
With our 5'er, I do watch for tailswing when turning sharply at low speeds. Pulling away from fuel pumps is an example! After awhile it becomes second nature tough. I have seen alot of Class C's with skate wheels hanging off the rear bumper. It looks like the lower slung suspension models may have more problem scraping on driveways.
That brings up an excellent point about scraping the tail on dips. We used to pull a trailer with our Jeep aboard and it required a drop hitch to keep the tongue of the trailer low enough so the tail of the trailer didn't scrape. We got into a situation in Georgia pulling into a gas station where the road sloped downward and then the gas station driveway sloped upward. The tongue of the trailer and the drop hitch came in contact with the road when the RV started uphill into the driveway and we almost got stuck! Fortunately I knew what was happening and gunned the RV and got us through. It sure
would have been an embarassing moment to be stuck
there with the RV drive wheels not in contact with the
ground!
Ron, we definately watch for that, our Truck Conversion has two Large Metal Rollers strategically mounted on the underside of the back edge. On more than one occasion those two rollers saved the day......G
Update -- we went to the RV show in Edison NJ today and found the side of the fence we want to be on. Since something has to be sacrificed (either living space or areas to park), we decided we cannot live without the living space. We must have room for an "office", even if it means replacing an entertainment center or a couch for a desk, and we also need at least one dresser in the bedroom where we can put clothes. So... we will most likely end up with a 5'er 35-40'.
Thank you everyone for your ideas.
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Cheryl B. in her new RV
(well, not new any more! Full timing since 6/25/14)
2008 DRV MS 36TKBS3 (the CoW: Castle on Wheels), 2005 Ford F550 hauler (the Bull)
Update -- we went to the RV show in Edison NJ today and found the side of the fence we want to be on. Since something has to be sacrificed (either living space or areas to park), we decided we cannot live without the living space. We must have room for an "office", even if it means replacing an entertainment center or a couch for a desk, and we also need at least one dresser in the bedroom where we can put clothes. So... we will most likely end up with a 5'er 35-40'.
Thank you everyone for your ideas.
It sure helps to be at the shows. Nothing beats being able to move back and forth between two or more different styles of RV's to help one's decisions.
Good luck on researching for the fifth wheel option. Remember to look for the RV and choose that before choosing a truck. One can never have a truck too big, but it is too darned easy to get a trailer that is and regretting it later.
Terry
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Terry and Jo
2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3 2008 Ford F450 2019 Ford Expedition Max as Tag-along or Scout
Terry I have to disagree slightly on your last comment, my problem was too many choices LOL! I wanted the living area of the 5th wheel but I liked everything else on the DP. It took us a year to make up our minds on which one to go with. It took us longer to decide on an RV then it did our last home!