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Hi All, I read that Howard had to make some roof repairs, however he didn't go into detail as to how he did them or what product he used (or did he?..hmm). Anyone have any good tips on products or methods for repairing rubber roofs???...
GBY.......... Doncat
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www.rvdaydreams.blogspot.com 2002 29' Prowler TT pushing a 2002 GMC 2500HD "BIG RED" Counting the days until we fulltime but not forgetting to enjoy everyday as a gift from God.
We have had good luck with the Dicor Patch kit and the Dicor products that incorporate a patch along with self leveling caulk. Never tried the paint on stuff and not sure we would.
Larry and Jacki
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Larry and Jacki-belle Linley with Taiga our minature dachsund - 2011 34 ft Montana towed by a 2014 Silverado Durmax Allison 4x4.
For our repairs I used Rapid Roof III. Jack Mayer had good luck with it and gave me what he had leftover since he no longer has a rubber roof.
It's pretty easy - even for me.
Clean the area. Paint on the acrylic latex (looks like white glue). Cut the included flexible polyester fabric and set it in the latex being careful not to stretch the fabric. Paint on additional latex making sure to completely cover the fabric. Let dry for two hours and then paint on another thick top coat of latex. Done.
The Dicor products also have a very good reputation. I just haven't used them yet.
Maybe I should put this in a different thread, but here goes anyway. We're still looking, and I was wondering: What are the supposed advantages/tradeoffs of one type of roof over another on a fiver (rubber/fiberglass)? Is it even that important as a consideration? Can't remember who the maufacturer is, but I've noticed that one of the differences between their high-end and more moderately priced models is that the high-end model has a fiberglass roof. Thanks!
I have yet to decide on and purchase a motorhome for our future fulltiming adventures and the question of a fabric vs. a fiberglass roof has always been one of my highest concerns. While all the manufacturers and RV salesmen (and many owners) I have spoken to tend to dismiss my concerns, it still bothers me that one should have to deal with this type of issue (as Howard just did) when a fiberglass roof seems so much more logical. After all, the rest of the coach is fiberglass... why make the roof of fabric?
Aah yes... the cost. I have been quoted as much as 10K for a fiberglass vs. a fabric roof. I have to believe the RV manufacturers are really using this item as a extreme profit center for their vehicles because they know it's better and they know people will pay for it. I have been on several motorhome factory tours and have seen both the fabric and the fiberglass roof materials and the installation process. The installs are basically the same... their is no additional labor cost to fiberglass. So, they would have us believe that their cost of a formed sheet (or sometimes just a rolled sheet) of fiberglass is 10K? I don't think so.
But, they obviously have us over a barrel. If you feel you want as maintenance free an exterior on your RV as you can get (like I do) you will have to pay the price.
It seems that rubber roofs are more vulnerable to tree limbs that metal and fiberglass roofs. Some claim that rubber roofs are less likely to leak but I doubt it. The cost is quite a bit different with rubber roofs much less expensive than the harder roofs.
Once you have a tube of dicor self leveling caulk and left overs from a roll of patch material you might as well take it with you if you are on the road more than a weekend at a time. You never know when a tree will jump out and get you. We have some roll material, you shouldn't scrimp on a rubber roof patch.
The need to check caulk and repair cracks etc is very important preventive maintenance. More important than the "Pay me now or pay me later" more like pay much more later. Self leveling caulk is very useful to repair cracks in caulk caused by sunlight, temperature swings, and road stress which happens on every rig.
Most such problems are self inflicted. At least for us. Larry and Jacki
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Larry and Jacki-belle Linley with Taiga our minature dachsund - 2011 34 ft Montana towed by a 2014 Silverado Durmax Allison 4x4.
Hi Fred, Just google rv tpo vinyl roof and it will take you to Excapees RV Club and you can get it all from the 'horses" mouth on the difference between them. I dont think your roof is rubber. southwestjudy & Bob & 2blackdogs
In my question I was using 'rubber' generically to mean anything other than fiberglass... Rubber, vinyl, whatever. I would guess that routine inspections and maintenance could/would be required from time to time no matter what the roof material is. Fiberglass can crack after all. Seems to me I saw a post somewhere (maybe it was one from Jack Mayer) about affixing solar panels to a roof that said there was some kind of tape that could be used on a fiberglass roof so that you didn't have to drill any holes and that this tape simply would not come detached. It also seems to me that it would be a good thing not to have to drill any holes anywhere in the exterior if you can avoid it. So, if my memory is accurate, I'm thinking that's at least one check mark on the plus side for a fiberglass roof. I really don't know.... I'm just trying to put together a decision matrix of pluses and minuses for lots of things to help us put together a list of must-haves for us when we start shopping.
Tim & Robyn RE Fiberglas...Fiberglas is hard so any joints in the material will move as the trailer flexes going down the road. As the owner of a fiberglas roof, I will tell you that no amount of recauking will keep the roof from leaking. I have never had a rubber roof but I would think it might flex enough till keep the roof from leaking. Fiberglas won't rip but joints are another thing.
Yea, that was one of the worries I had about fiberglass - how well does the cauling stand up to the inevitable flexing as the rig barrels down the road - at a safe speed, of course!
As with all RV roofs you will need to ck them from time to time with regular maintance and cleaning and caulking. Fiberglas is a molded shell and it will have a seam also. southwestjudy & Bob & 2blackdogs
Our Winnebago product has a one-piece fiberglass roof, but it is not a solid cap like some use. Keep in mind that fivers have a two-level roof in most cases, so even the roll-on fiberglass will not work without cutting a seam somewhere. Solid caps, like Excel offers, has to be lowered onto the rafters with a crane, then bolted/glued down. I believ it has a seam between the upper/lower levels. All compromises! Another thing fiver manufacturers claim is that the solid fiberglas is too heavy, and that the TPO roofs don't conform to anything but a mostly flat roof. I would REALLY prefer to have a fiberglass roof, but in fivers, it's rare.
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