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Reason for question looking at a lifestyles to buy, and the slide is lower at the rear end and is starting to tear up the black water proof material. thanks Den.
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2017 365 Landmark Arlington. Magnum solar, 2015 Silverado 3500 cc lb. LTZ dually.
“the slide is lower at the rear end and is starting to tear up the black water proof material.”
Why would you consider buying this RV?
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Winnebago TT 2101DS & 2020 Silverado LTZ Z71. 300 watts WindyNation solar w/MPPT, 2 Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, USF&WS, NPS, TVA, state/county camps. 14 year Army vet-11B40 then 11A - old MOS 1542 & 1560.
Are you talking about the vapor barrier on the underside of the slideout? In my opinion, slides should be extended before leveling to ensure the rig is square. If this 5'er has levelers that could be the cause of the barrier being torn up.
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2018 Thor Windsport 35M -- 2018 Camry Toad
-- USAF Retired -- Full-timing since December 2007 - Part-Timing since July 2011
Yes the vapor barrier is starting to tear up.
Looking curb side I can see that slide laying down to the rear of the coach. Maybe when the slide is out and rest could it be frame damage?
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2017 365 Landmark Arlington. Magnum solar, 2015 Silverado 3500 cc lb. LTZ dually.
Are you talking about the vapor barrier on the underside of the slideout? In my opinion, slides should be extended before leveling to ensure the rig is square. If this 5'er has levelers that could be the cause of the barrier being torn up.
This seems odd to me. With our DRV Suites Mobile Suites, we were told to always level the RV first so that extension of the slides wouldn't twist the frame in any way. At least, that is what I assumed from the conversation at the time.
Maybe I need to get with my "knowledgeable" people.
Terry
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Terry and Jo
2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3 2008 Ford F450 2019 Ford Expedition Max as Tag-along or Scout
My slide had 4 rollers that it rode on when moving, they were about 6" wide, and I believe just from the weight of the slide (full wall slide) was enough to cause a wrinkle in the barrier when extending/retracting. Then at some point the wrinkle turned into a crease from the "ironing" effect of going over the roller. Eventually the crease caught on the roller and was torn. I would guess it took over 2 years for this problem to manifest itself.
I took the rig back to my dealer and they installed a hard rubber runner where the slide contacted the roller. The stuff they used reminded me of brake shoes, that asbestos looking gray/black material. They sealed it and I never had another problem with the vapor barrier.
Terry, best bet is to follow manufactures instructions for slide extension and levelers. It's just my opinion that for our motorhome, the best square I could expect would be with it all folded up and on the frame. I always thought the levelers could cause a twist in the frame because the ground is now dictating each corner height.
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2018 Thor Windsport 35M -- 2018 Camry Toad
-- USAF Retired -- Full-timing since December 2007 - Part-Timing since July 2011
This seems odd to me. With our DRV Suites Mobile Suites, we were told to always level the RV first so that extension of the slides wouldn't twist the frame in any way. At least, that is what I assumed from the conversation at the time.
Maybe I need to get with my "knowledgeable" people.
Terry
Due to our travel and time in fifth wheels alone we've probably opened and closed our slides more then almost anyone on the forum. Just a fact, not a badge of honor. Looking at my log we've opened and closed our slides on two trailers in the past 12+ years at least 750 times so I base the following on that experience and the comments from guys "on the line" who build 'em. Not the sales people.
We move a lot and the following procedure has eliminated the slide sticking / sheer bolt breaking issues for us and others that travel / move a lot and therefore move the slides a lot. So with that said: "It still depends."
IF the trailer has leveling jacks capable of lifting the rig - really leveling it - no wheel blocks - then it is best to level front-to-back - then open the slides -- then level side-to-side.
Why? Because the trailer was built siting on the wheels, not the leveling jacks -- so there is less likelihood of the frame slightly twisting and not have the sides - through which the slides move - out of "square" with the slides.
Using the jacks to level (which might mean lifting the wheels off the ground which we do all the time) puts the lift points on a different place on the frame then the axles /wheels. So there will be some flexing no matter how strong the frame when leveling with hydraulic jacks that actually lift the rig - not just "stabilizing" it. This slight flexing can cause slides to rub, jam, etc. as the side wall "hole" is now slightly deformed due to the frame flexing.
Now, in the "it depends" department - If one is using leveling blocks under the wheels to actually level, one should, IMO, level the rig and then put the slides out because the trailer is still sitting on the wheels as it was constructed. Hence the "square" of the hole through which the slides move is less likely to be deformed.
I can give exceptions to the above rule but this is true in general for a fifth wheel or travel trailer.
This has nothing to do with brand or quality of rig. It has to do with the fact frames bend and twist. If they didn't the rig would break.
Don't want to argue with anyone else's procedure. We just know this works and experience has proved it to work for us and others that operate big heavy slides a great deal.
I can tell you "MY" DRV when I set true LEVEL with a laser under my rig all 4 corners were spot on, NOT twisted. So I LEVEL my rig THEN open slides.
Our rig was assembled to the point the floor decking was added then the tires and wheels were added and sat on dollys. This is to assure a flat stiff frame.
I can tell you "MY" DRV when I set true LEVEL with a laser under my rig all 4 corners were spot on, NOT twisted. So I LEVEL my rig THEN open slides.
Our rig was assembled to the point the floor decking was added then the tires and wheels were added and sat on dollys. This is to assure a flat stiff frame.
Yes sir, but the sidewalls were put on and the slides installed and fitted / adjusted once the rig was on wheels and dolly and that's what I was saying and as your picture shows. Made just like ours and most all other large 5th wheel rigs and trailers.
But it matters not. Everyone will do it however they choose anyway. :)