Hi Everyone. Well, after 15 years the RV-Dreams Community Forum is coming to an end. Since it began in August 2005, we've had 58 Million page views, 124,000 posts, and we've spent about $15,000 to keep this valuable resource for RVers free and open. But since we are now off the road and have settled down for the next chapter of our lives, we are taking the Forum down effective June 30, 2021. It has been a tough decision, but it is now time.
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I would prefer to have a truck rated for 12,500 GVWR for safety. I've never owned a full size truck in my life, but just in looking at some of the Trailer Life towing guides I'm starting to discover that I need either a heavy 3/4 ton or even a 1-ton.
A friend of mine told me that the cheapest route would be to go with a Ford diesel 3/4 ton with something called a "bulletproof" kit already installed, or a GMC truck made after 2009.
I need something that I can hitch up and haul days in a row if need be. Won't be RVing fulltime, but when retirement comes I hope to be Rving most of the time.
Cold, select the RV first. Then match an appropriate TV.
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Winnebago TT 2101DS & 2020 Silverado LTZ Z71. 300 watts WindyNation solar w/MPPT, 2 Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, USF&WS, NPS, TVA, state/county camps. 14 year Army vet-11B40 then 11A - old MOS 1542 & 1560.
I'll let the 5er gals and guys get specific but I'm not sure a 3/4 is enough truck.
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Winnebago TT 2101DS & 2020 Silverado LTZ Z71. 300 watts WindyNation solar w/MPPT, 2 Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, USF&WS, NPS, TVA, state/county camps. 14 year Army vet-11B40 then 11A - old MOS 1542 & 1560.
Figure out the pin and tow weight…then look at the actual loaded weight of truck by itself (250/350/450/etc) and run the numbers.l Offhand I would think a 350/3500 would be sufficient but without doing the math it's not possible to give you a correct answer.
"A friend of mine told me that the cheapest route would be to go with a Ford diesel 3/4 ton with something called a "bulletproof" kit already installed". "
Ask your friend if he will pay when the "bulletproof" engine tales a dump?
Most any newer 250/2500 will carry the load of a 10,500# actual weight of a 5er.
Ok.....a 5er is a 5th wheel trailer. (I finally figured that one out!)
Our original budget was $35,000 for both trailer and truck. Guaranteed to go over with the price of the trailer around $27K. We were trying to purchase a used truck in good condition to save money. That's how the subject of a bulletproof Ford came up.
Thank you for the input.
Marc, my shorthand for a fifth wheel trailer. I should be more clear...I agree.
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Winnebago TT 2101DS & 2020 Silverado LTZ Z71. 300 watts WindyNation solar w/MPPT, 2 Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, USF&WS, NPS, TVA, state/county camps. 14 year Army vet-11B40 then 11A - old MOS 1542 & 1560.
Marc, it looks like you are looking at a travel trailer, not a 5'er. That means that 10-15% of the GROSS vehicle weight rating (gross weight from here on out) will be on the hitch. In your case, you are looking at 1,000-1,500 pounds hitch weight PLUS the weight of the hitch. Most F250-class trucks can handle that. The problem comes when you load that big empty bed with a couple of motorcycles, a big tool box, a smoker, and the St. Bernard. Add in a few cases of beer and a couple of bags of dog food and you can get over the truck's rear axle weight rating in a big hurry.
One thing you can do is figure out the weight of all of the stuff that will be in the truck when you hit the road. That includes you, your wife, the kids, the dog, etc. Then go find a truck that is as close as possible to what you want, fill the fuel tank (sales people will love that part), and head for the nearest CAT scale. Weigh the truck with each axle on a separate pad. If you weighed with anyone in the truck that will be on your camping trips you don't have to add their weight again, but otherwise add to the rear axle weight the weight of all of the people and stuff that will be in the truck. Then add the 1500 pounds of hitch weight. Still under the rear axle weight rating? If not, either get a bigger truck or take less stuff.
Be sure to leave a safety margin. For example, if the rear axle weight rating is 7500 pounds, and you are at 7499 pounds, you are technically legal, but you don't have much of a margin. If your rating is 7500 pounds and you are at 6500 pounds you are in much better shape as there will be less stress on the rear suspension system.
Do yourself a favor and buy a 3500.........it will save yourself a lot of time and trouble in the long run.....stay away from Ford 6.0,Ford 6.4...troublesome....and get an 8ft bed,longer wheelbase is more stable///
Do yourself a favor and buy a 3500.........it will save yourself a lot of time and trouble in the long run.....stay away from Ford 6.0,Ford 6.4...troublesome....and get an 8ft bed,longer wheelbase is more stable///
You seem to have a great deal of knowledge of how bad the Ford engines are. Perhaps my 2008 Ford F450 with the 6.4 should be learning from you?
Or, is your knowledge of engines based on what you read on truck forums?
Terry
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Terry and Jo
2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3 2008 Ford F450 2019 Ford Expedition Max as Tag-along or Scout
The most important factor in selecting a used truck is the care it has received and the condition it is in. Ignore the “brand fans” ... that is a blonde, brunette, red head discussion ... you like what you like, so buy that. All of the big 3 have become very good trucks of late and all had “issues” in the the past. If you can swing a newer truck (say 2015 or newer) you’ll get an exhaust brake which is a valuable tool when towing in the mountains. Good Luck with your search.
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Ron and Janice
2016 Ford F350, King Ranch, DRW, 4x4, CC, 6.7 PS Diesel, remote control air lift system
2017 Durango Gold 381REF, Lambright furniture, MCD shades, morRYDE IS, 8K Disc brakes, GY G114 LR H Tires, 27,320 lbs CGVW
The most important factor in selecting a used truck is the care it has received and the condition it is in. Ignore the “brand fans” ... that is a blonde, brunette, red head discussion ... you like what you like, so buy that. All of the big 3 have become very good trucks of late and all had “issues” in the the past. If you can swing a newer truck (say 2015 or newer) you’ll get an exhaust brake which is a valuable tool when towing in the mountains. Good Luck with your search.
what I would recommend ; don't buy something because u simply like it ;;research it and make sure theres no factory defects make sure its the right gear ratio makes sure its the engine that will do the job make sure it has the options u want and need; correct GVWR etc etc don't ever buy it simply because you like it
OK... I’ll go slower for you ... it doesn’t matter what brand it is, it matters what condition it is in. A well cared for Ford 6.0 is better than an abused Cummins or Duramax. Brand only matters if all other things are equal. That is the problem with fan boys ... the obvious is ignored.
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Ron and Janice
2016 Ford F350, King Ranch, DRW, 4x4, CC, 6.7 PS Diesel, remote control air lift system
2017 Durango Gold 381REF, Lambright furniture, MCD shades, morRYDE IS, 8K Disc brakes, GY G114 LR H Tires, 27,320 lbs CGVW
There are some new participants here that would benefit by going to the top of the main page and reading the rules and guidelines.
Unlike many other forums, whether they be related to tow vehicles or RV's, we try to have relevant and respectful dialogue within the discussions. One's opinion of one brand or another is always subjective, so no matter how much one likes their "brand," kindly respect the others who might disagree.
Terry
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Terry and Jo
2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3 2008 Ford F450 2019 Ford Expedition Max as Tag-along or Scout