I would not recommend leaving the dogs in the back of a toy hauler while traveling, even crated. There is a lot of motion back there, so it easy for the dogs to get hurt and any food or water could easily tip over. It can get very hot in summer inside and there is no a/c in the hauler section. About everyone I know who has pets and a 5th wheel has the pets in the truck while traveling.

Welcome. From experience you won't be an extreme novice for long if you hang around here. LOL. I was like you at first, a lot of specs and data and dreams and.... well you get the idea. I am by no means an "old hat" but I have picked up quite a bit from those same old hats round this forum. 

I gather you typoed the truck bed length, I'm assuming your meant 8 feet. You are right to be concerned that a 2500 may be "under-trucking" your indicated RV choices. You didn't mention whether it was a gasser or diesel, this will make a big difference in what you can accomplish. There are many tow calculators (google tow calculator) out there that will help you figure out what a 2017 RAM 2500 will capably tow safely. Basically, Gross Trailer Weight Rating(its GVWR and total weight of the trailer and all its contents) and the truck's RAWR (Rear axle weight rating and usually found on the sticker on the driver door) and the truck's CGVWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating... truck plus trailer, published by the truck mfr.) are the three biggies. I've simplified a bit but its not rocket science either. All three cannot be exceeded to be legal. With a 2500 model your likely limiting factor will be either the RAWR or the CGVWR. Toy haulers are a lot harder to overload than other trailer types but certainly not impossible and if you want the space for dogs as opposed to ATVs or other heavy items then I doubt you will exceed the GVW rating of the toy hauler. With a 30 foot toy hauler you may be able to make it work, but without actual trailer data or your actual truck configuration it's hard to determine. Just a guess but I feel you're pushing your luck with a 37' toyhauler hooked up to a RAM 2500. I've seen it done, but JMHO, that is crazy stupid. The truck was squatting down about 4 inches... one truck rear axle tire blow out and the consequences could be dire.

Brian

-- Edited by BiggarView on Tuesday 14th of March 2017 10:18:58 AM

I'll echo what Brian said and add this:

1) I suggest you fill up your truck, both of you and all the dogs jump in, and head for the nearest scales (CAT, co-op, etc.). Get separate front and rear axle weights;

2) subtract the actual rear axle weight from the GVWRR (rear axle weight rating on the truck's door sticker) and save that for later;

3) as you shop for RVs, look at the GVWR stickers or manufacturer's specs on the RVs you are considering and use 23 - 25% of the trailer GVWR for a loaded pin weight (IGNORE THE PUBLISHED EMPTY PIN AND TRAILER WEIGHTS - OR ANYTHING THE SALESMAN TELLS YOU!);

4) take the estimated loaded pin weight and add to it the weight of any hitch you are considering (standard 5th wheel hitches are not light... you might want to research the Andersen Ultimate);

5) subtract the sum you get in step 4 from the payload number you got in step 2. If the estimated loaded pin weight plus the weight of the hitch exceeds your leftover payload calculation from step 2, you need to shop for a smaller/lighter fifth wheel.

Any of the three modern American-made diesel 3/4-ton light trucks will pull a house off its foundation... you just can't put the weight of the house on the rear axle.

6) [optional] - ask me how I learned this the hard/expensive way.

Rob