Preparing to convert a Parkmodel to a toyhauler with solar, 12V and LED - RV-Dreams Community Forum

mudigger25 · RV-Dreams Community Member

Preparing to convert a Parkmodel to a toyhauler with solar, 12V and LED

Sushidog · RV-Dreams Family Member

Greetings Mudigger, welcome to the forum.

Gee, where do I start. First, I'm sure you know that park models are not built to withstand the rigors of continuous over the road use, and this older model looks a little rough from the pictures, so I assume you want to tow it to one place and leave it, or do you plan to move it seasonally? Do you plan or replacing the running gear, as it looks pretty rusty and corroded to me? If it were me, I wouldn't sink much money in this project without first getting it professionally inspected. Definitely get it weighed and look at the data plate (usually on the side of the trailer, or inside a kitchen cabinet do the math to determine its carrying capacity before adding your water heater, water tanks and such, as water weigh 8.35lbs/gallon so just the weight of 100 gallons of water is 835lbs. Add to that the weight of your solar system (batteries are heavy). Remember that 60 amp system is at 60v, meaning you need a 60 volt battery bank. Personally I wouldn't go over 48 volts, for safety sake. There are some nice 48v DC heat pumps that are super efficient that you could power directly off your batteries without the efficiency loss of an inverter. The rest could be run through an inverter for the rest of your power needs. Here's a link: www.geinnovations.net/HSAC_Productline.html If you plan on capturing rain water for potable use, I recommend a reverse osmosis system rather than just filters. Regardless, your plans are going to cost some serious money to do right, and if it were me, I'd look for a trailer in a little better condition to start my build. I'm not trying to discourage you but from the photos of the unit it looks like you might be throwing good money after bad.

Chip

mudigger25 · RV-Dreams Community Member

Sushidog wrote:
Greetings Mudigger, welcome to the forum.

Gee, where do I start. First, I'm sure you know that park models are not built to withstand the rigors of continuous over the road use, and this older model looks a little rough from the pictures, so I assume you want to tow it to one place and leave it, or do you plan to move it seasonally? Do you plan or replacing the running gear, as it looks pretty rusty and corroded to me? If it were me, I wouldn't sink much money in this project without first getting it professionally inspected. Definitely get it weighed and look at the data plate (usually on the side of the trailer, or inside a kitchen cabinet do the math to determine its carrying capacity before adding your water heater, water tanks and such, as water weigh 8.35lbs/gallon so just the weight of 100 gallons of water is 835lbs. Add to that the weight of your solar system (batteries are heavy). Remember that 60 amp system is at 60v, meaning you need a 60 volt battery bank. Personally I wouldn't go over 48 volts, for safety sake. There are some nice 48v DC heat pumps that are super efficient that you could power directly off your batteries without the efficiency loss of an inverter. The rest could be run through an inverter for the rest of your power needs. Here's a link: www.geinnovations.net/HSAC_Productline.html If you plan on capturing rain water for potable use, I recommend a reverse osmosis system rather than just filters. Regardless, your plans are going to cost some serious money to do right, and if it were me, I'd look for a trailer in a little better condition to start my build. I'm not trying to discourage you but from the photos of the unit it looks like you might be throwing good money after bad.

Chip

Ill try to answer all your questions in order lol:

1. I was under the impression that all parkmodels were designed to be towed seasonally to and from campgrounds/RV parks, left there for 6-9 months depending on the geographic location, for example maybe 6 months in ND, but maybe 9-10 months in florida or georgia, and then towed back home or to storage. Some people leave them at the same location for years on end, but i have witnessed (because i lived in an RV park in a 5th wheel and was the groundskeeper) many people have park models and they set them up only for 8 months then tow them home about 30-60 miles.

2. Our plan is to use it maybe for a weekend here or there, and its main use would be a seasonal trip to central GA from the end of harvest until mid april then come back home to ND, unless we get a good price at the RV park in georgia then we leave it there blocked up.

3. I worked at a shop for 11 months or so (heavy OTR trucks, grain trailers, etc.) So i wll be inspecting the spindles, and axle tube condition, I already contacted Dexter since they manufactured the axles back int he 70's and 80's and they gave me a complete parts breakdown to convert from the old style UTG hubs in the pictures over to the new 8-lug axles that i already have 3,000lb rated wheels and tires for. They also informed me in that email that the axles were factory rated for 6,000lbs, my tires are rated for 3,084 each so im ok there.

4. I will be weighing it atleast 2x on a CAT scale on my way home with it and i will post the results but it wont be unfrozen from the ground until early march, however there is no data plate, i opened every single cabinet, the power box, fridge, oven, etc, there is no data sheet or plate anywhere, nor on the outside, no VIN visible on the tongue, or anywhere else. the last owner could not locate one either and filed for a homemade trailer registration because the title and vin could not be located.

5. I do know water weighs alot, and so to the batteries, at 70lbs per battery if i use the T105RE which are optimized for solar use, and atleast 8 to start with, and upgrading to 16 to double the capacity for long nights or rainy days. the RE series can be safely discharged to 80% DoD without reducing the cycle life dramatically. thats 560lbs and double that for the later expansion. i intend to get all of the batteries with 6mo of each other so the date codes will be very close.

6. Regarding the 60A being a 60V system, that is not true at all with my controller, you should take a look at my controllers owner manual, it will allow up to 145V on the solar array and 12V, 24V, 36V 48V or 60V whichever i choose, it downconverts the solar PV to the battery voltage with a limit of 60A, so 60A @ 12V= 720W input, 24V @60A 1440W, 36V @ 60A = 2160W, 48V @60A 2880W, and 60V @ 60A = 3600W. But i dont have the funds for 3600W of solar, so i will only be going around 6- 305W panels for 1800W incoming around 70V then the controller will convert that down to 48V around 38A so i will still have 40% room for expansion later if i want to.

7. I have also been looking into the 30A 48V to 12V DC-DC converters to run LED lighting, fans, and the furnace fan. i havent looked into heat pumps yet, but i should.

8. I am not 100% sure on the rain water collection, atleast not right away, but it is something im looking into for the future if we are boondocking or camping without access to clean water.

9. The 2 main reasons for this trailer is that its large, the frame is much much much larger than even our 1992 34ft bumper pull we had before it was rated for 7500 and the C-channel used was puny in comparison. I am already planning on some reinforacement and removing all the rust and repainting the frame, and the second reason is that Im only spending $150 plus the fuel to get it home.

I could look into other trailers but i have read many many stories of people using regular campers and 5th wheels to live in full time and they are already loaded to the near maximum frame capacity from the factory so they add solar, batteries, equipment, etc then they end up breaking stuff like the frame welds, hitch, bending the C channel running the length of the trailer. I looked up the jr beams they used on our trailer and they use the same rated beams for 18K car haulers and 12K utility trailers at the local trailer plant, so i do not forsee the frame being the weak link but rather the floors and only having 2 axles. I will know how much room i have once its weighed of course, but 12K worth of axles and springs is a good start IMO.

So far my totals that i have estimated:

$150 trailer

$50 diesel

$400 full axle hub upgrade (this in includes new bearings, races, brakes, backing plates and possibly springs too)

$1280 - 8x Trojan T105RE batteries

$50 - cabling to make 48V battery bank

$10 1 gallon of premixed battery acid ( they sell it at the local farm store)

$1800 - 6 305W solar panels

$500 Aims 5000W 48V MSW inverter. ( can also go up to 60V)

$100 LED light fixtures

$100 3 speed 14"x14" fan

$150 8,000BTU(800W) energystar A/C for just the bedroom

$100- Harbor frieght 800W 2cycle generator for running the AC continuously

Im sure the list goes on and on for all the little misc stuff like USB oulets, DC to DC converter, etc.

Sushidog · RV-Dreams Family Member

It sounds like you've got things worked out. You are definitely getting into it at the right price! If you're moving it seasonally, as you plan and not daily, it may work out for you.

If things prove later not to work out, you could always move your expensive components, like your solar system, to another trailer and not be too much worse for wear.

BTW that 800 watt generator won't run an 8,000 BTU AC. ACs have a large start-up surge which requires much more power for a brief period of time. I have a 1,200/1,500 watt generator that barely runs a 5,000 btu AC, but I'd think you would need something like a 1,700/2,000 watt Champion at a minimum for an efficient 8,000 BTU AC, especially if you want to run it for long periods. It would also be better at charging your batteries too, when there's a stretch of bad weather. You might want to consider a used Honda EU2000 if cost is an issue, as they are much more durable, and will prove cheaper in the long run.

Your Trojans should come filled with battery acid, so I don't think you will be needing any more, unless you plan or ordering them shipped to you. I recommend purchasing them locally if you can find a good vendor.

The point I was trying to make about the controller is that with 1,000 watts of solar that you suggested you might add, it well exceeds the 12v capacity of the controller, necessitating a higher voltage battery bank than 12v - at least 24v.

Chip

-- Edited by Sushidog on Monday 20th of February 2017 08:12:01 PM

-- Edited by Sushidog on Monday 20th of February 2017 08:21:17 PM

Barbaraok · RV-Dreams Family Member

There is a difference between Park Models and parkmodel trailers. It sounds like you are talking about a trailer. We own a Park Model in Mesa and once in place, you don't move these things.