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Looks like the time for a Mor-Ryde upgrade has come. We discovered we have a bent spindle on our Axle but out warranty company is refusing to replace it because it hasn't "failed" yet. Yes I know it's ridiculous, and we have appealed but they seem to be holding firm. We wanted to upgrade at some point anyways, just thought we would have longer until we needed to do it.
Anyways, we are currently working in Texas and have jobs in Vegas and Oregon scheduled through Spetember. There is a break in October where we can drive from Oregon to Indiana but hate to wait that long unless there is a really good reason. I know many of you have done the upgrade, I was wondering if anyone had it done anywhere but Indiana? We think we can limp along on our existing axle until that point (it's chewing into our shackle and putting excess wear on the tire, but the alignment is within specs), but it will be an additional 6K in travel before we can get to Indiana. Of course we understand that if we go this route we are rolling the dice on having a catastrophic failure. As a side note , yes I am getting the reason the claim is being denied in writing, and yes if something happened for the first time in my life I would sue, but who wants to go through all that.
Also it is important to note that we cannot afford to blow off these jobs. As working RVers we need that revenue to keep us going this year. So knowing all that, what are your thoughts? Would you wait for Indiana or try to find a dealer?
I don't believe so…give them a call and they can tell you (probably) of an authorized installer in your area. There are advantages to having it done in Elkhart though…you're at the factory so parts availability and expertise are better than elsewhere. Then there's Ichyda…a great brewery in town that's definitely a don't miss if you're there.
Ask for Gary Wheeler at the factory…he's one of the higher ups and will likely be able to give you the name of a trusted installer. Pretty much anybody can do it…just order the parts…but expertise goes a long way.
Whatever you do…make sure they weld them to the frame in addition to using the little tabs…if I was Bill I would say ask me how I know this…but suffice it to say that the new recommended procedure is to weld them on (at least I'm pretty sure that's the new procedure. One disadvantage of elsewhere install is they may not have the alignment stuff to do a post install alignment…the factory does and they don't come pre-aligned.
Your question is a tough one and Neil's comments are on target. But it is a long way from the west coast. But moreover you have a questionable axle / suspension system currently under the rig. Can others do it? Absolutely, IF they have the proper equipment to align the axles - it does require a wheel-mounted, "laser" alignment to get it just right. That precision alignment capability is part of what you are paying for. It can be done mechanically but "best procedures" are still best. As to "welding," MOR/ryde technicians have always "welded" the axle mounting rails in addition to other mounting and welded brackets. Other trailer OEMs may do it differently.
But to the point having had a lot of work done at MOR/ryde I would hope your plans would work out to have the work done at the factory if at all possible unless MOR/ryde specifically has a west coast shop to recommend and you verify that shop does these installations regularly. You also need the trailer weighed and make sure that the axle rating selected is appropriate. Just because your original OEM put on, say, 7K axles doesn't mean the appropriate choice isn't 8K. (There is no "regulation" which limits the size of the axles that maybe installed.)
Installing these axles, and disc brake systems, is not "brain surgery." But I wouldn't want it done even by a quality shop who might be reading the directions the first or second time regardless of their expertise. I've had 10 plus years of direct experience with MOR/ryde factory service. No one is perfect, but I have had all my work done at the factory even though it takes us a weeks worth of travel to have the work done there. That might best answer the question from our perspective - that includes Linda.
I had the MoRyde IS Suspension along with Disc Brakes installed on my Redwood 5th Wheel last summer, they did a awesome job and I am very pleased with the installation, trailer ride and smooth towing.
Well worth the investment and time to get to the MoRyde Plant in Elkhart.
I will be going to Elkhart in mid March for the Install on my Cedar Creek, I have been talking to Brendan Aukerman @574-293-1581 ext 295 . we will be arriving on Sunday and spend the nite in their campground for a monday/tuesday install. He said it normally is completed in two days. We can spend the nite in our rv inside their shop while it is being worked on.
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2005 Cedar Creek 30RLBS/RV Flex Armour Roof / MORryde Independent Suspension/ Disc Brakes
You don't need an authorized Mor/Ryde mechanic to install axles on a trailer. It's pretty basic for any repair shop that deals with trucks and trailers. I had a third axle added to my trailer by my local mechanic and it works well. Gary at Mor/Ryde was only concerned that the alignment was done correctly but other than that he had no problem with my mechanic doing the work.
You don't need an authorized Mor/Ryde mechanic to install axles on a trailer. It's pretty basic for any repair shop that deals with trucks and trailers. I had a third axle added to my trailer by my local mechanic and it works well. Gary at Mor/Ryde was only concerned that the alignment was done correctly but other than that he had no problem with my mechanic doing the work.
The IS alignment issue is the main issue. Unless the shop has the proper alignment equipment one is just not getting their monies worth with the IS. In addition to the improved ride and greater vertical travel of the IS, the ability to align the axles, just like a car or truck, is a major reason to install the IS. Proper tracking impacts handling and tire wear.
As long as the shop has the proper alignment equipment, which works off the king pin by the way as the reference point, a qualified shop can do the work. I just recommend making sure the shop has the proper equipment to complete the alignment.
One also needs to consider, if not already installed, up-grading to disc brakes. During IS installation is a cost effective time to do this important safety upgrade.
After looking at the options we decided to go ahead and stop in Indiana. I just felt more comfortable getting it done at the source especially since we have had so many issues getting quality service on the road.
After looking at the options we decided to go ahead and stop in Indiana. I just felt more comfortable getting it done at the source especially since we have had so many issues getting quality service on the road.
Trace
Trace:
This is a great time, if necessary, to get your rig running perfectly level assuming it isn't now. Sometimes, with the new trucks, its necessary to have the front end hitched higher to get good truck bed rail clearance. If that is the case, when installing the IS it is really simple to have the trailer raised in the back so it can run level and have good (at least 6+" but 7" IMO is desirable) truck bed rail clearance. It's just a couple of pieces of steel. Easy to do and allows the rear and front axle to each carry their share of the load properly. A high trailer will put extra weight on the rear axle and tires.
Naturally this assumes you will still be below 13'6" if you do have a lift installed. Do consult with Rob Kolen -(574) 293-1581 - Ex 256. Rob is the more technical sales guy and shop manager there. He can provide good advise, IMO. Ask about this prior to beginning work so they can take measurements to meet your goals.
They provide a nice lunch, so be sure and get your order in to the lady at the front desk. She usually brings a menu around the customer waiting area around 10AM. Except for the trains I hope will have a good experience. Let us know if we can be of any assistance.
They will have you park on a large level area and determine what height Risers are needed if any to level the RV. They added 3" to mine and it sits level at 13' 5" to highest point.
Trace for your info if you get to MORryde before the end of March they are giving a 10% winter discount. We are scheduled in on the 20th, Maybe we will see you there.
I got the info today from them about the NEV-R-Lube hubs and bearings. It is a $500 up charge and comes with a 3 year Dexter warranty, recommend replacing bearings at 5 years or 100K miles. I am now going with the EZ Lube system
Danny
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2005 Cedar Creek 30RLBS/RV Flex Armour Roof / MORryde Independent Suspension/ Disc Brakes
Winnebago TT 2101DS & 2020 Silverado LTZ Z71. 300 watts WindyNation solar w/MPPT, 2 Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, USF&WS, NPS, TVA, state/county camps. 14 year Army vet-11B40 then 11A - old MOS 1542 & 1560.
Trace for your info if you get to MORryde before the end of March they are giving a 10% winter discount. We are scheduled in on the 20th, Maybe we will see you there. I got the info today from them about the NEV-R-Lube hubs and bearings. It is a $500 up charge and comes with a 3 year Dexter warranty, recommend replacing bearings at 5 years or 100K miles. I am now going with the EZ Lube system
Danny
Danny:
I am not recommending the Nev-R-Lub bearings; however, be careful with the EZ Lube that you don't over grease them. The issue with that system (not a MOR/ryde issue) is that if you push too much grease in there its possible to blow out the rear seals. At least that was the case with the systems I've seen. Just recommend you receive good instruction from the tech doing the work, or Rob, as to just how to do the greasing and how to inspect them if your doing the work yourself.
FWIW, I do prefer "grease-able" bearings. We don't even have EZ-Lub. We use good old, taken 'em off, inspect and grease 'em bearings. But that's just our choice.
Thanks Bill for the info. I am well aware of the over greasing and blowing out the seal. With the Disc brakes it should be easy to monitor the seals for leakage. I have the EZ Lube now and on two previous tt's without a problem using a hand pump grease gun.
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2005 Cedar Creek 30RLBS/RV Flex Armour Roof / MORryde Independent Suspension/ Disc Brakes
Thanks Bill for the info. I am well aware of the over greasing and blowing out the seal. With the Disc brakes it should be easy to monitor the seals for leakage. I have the EZ Lube now and on two previous tt's without a problem using a hand pump grease gun.
Danny:
Good you know the drill.
I have a question for you. What brand / type of grease are you using in that hand gun. I'm looking for a grease that will have less of liquid (that's a slight exaggeration) component. Being honest, all of the auto store types, including name brands, seem to have so much liquid in them now they make a mess draining out of the gun while in storage. Didn't seem to have this problem "years ago."
Bill I use Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Grease PN W985, in a hand pump grease gun. There may be something better but this is what i use with good results
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2005 Cedar Creek 30RLBS/RV Flex Armour Roof / MORryde Independent Suspension/ Disc Brakes
