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I realize that the answer to this question varies widely, and depends on many factors. But still, I need to have some idea, so I know what sorts of rigs I can reasonably shop for and what is entirely out of my price range.
So. Given a dealer sale of a used high-end diesel pusher, one between 5 and 10 years old, what would be a reasonable discount from the listing price to expect to be able to receive? 5%, 10%, 20%?
If we were relate this to low NADA retail (without options), could we come up with a reasonable formula? In other words, should I expect to actually have to pay low NADA most of the time, 5% less, 10%, etc.?
I'm sorry for the vague and unanswerable question, but you can see that even 10% on a $200k rig is $20k - and that's enough to make a rig either available to consider, or not.
Just looking for guidelines to use for shopping, not hard and fast rules.
No one can really answer this. It varies too much. It is totally up to the dealer.
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2003 Teton Grand Freedon 2006 Mobile Suites 32TK3 SOLD 2006 Freightliner Century 120 with Detroit 14L singled, ultrashift, hauling a 2016 Smart Passion
Here is what I would do: I would decide on how much I wanted to spend, a range is fine but you need an amount that you will not go over and you must stick with that amount. I would look on the internet over a wide area and compare the asking prices of units that I was interested in. If you are shopping this time of year, dealers and private owners are wanting to unload stock before winter sets in until about February when prices climb again. When it comes to used, it depends on just how anxious they are to move it. Keep in mind that you will encounter high pressure sales people so you have to lock your heels in on price. You just pick out units you are interested in and offer what you have decided you can pay and if that dealership doesn't want your business, move on to the next. The market is flooded with used RVs like I have never seen before. I would not consider it unreasonable to start with an offer of 25% less and see where that goes. If they want too much, you just tell them that you are sorry and it may be worth more but that is all you have to spend. This works for us even when buying a house - this is part of my "honesty is the best policy and no games please" approach but I don't guarantee it.
NADA and similar sources are, at best, a guide to relative pricing. For high volume vehicles their numbers may be reasonably accurate, but try to find the NADA price for a Newell - it isn't there because there aren't enough Newells sold to give them any sort of guide. We had a general budget when we started researching, and it became smaller as we learned more. Our research gave us a reasonable idea of what range of coaches we could afford. When we found this one we made an offer which was less than the seller was asking, but what we thought fairly reflected the coach. It was immediately accepted. We bought from a private party.
PPL has a huge number of coaches for sale, and we used their numbers as one of our guides. I've been told that you can see what a coach sold for on their site, but I've never been able to find that feature. Following a few coaches from listing to sale and averaging the discount should give you at least something to use.
As others have said, make an offer that you are comfortable with and see what happens. The worst that can happen is the seller says to take a hike. Big deal. There are other coaches for sale. Remember that a coach for sale at a "bargain" price is often no bargain.
Since we recently purchased our new RV after spending 9 months doing research, this is one area I studied. First, I took a look at the NADA values - then looked at the depreciation from year to year for the model I was interested in. I took the current NADA value and subtracted another year's depreciation. That gave me one data point. Next I took a look on eBay, RVTrader and other sources - following the recommendations set out by "Buying a Used Motorhome" by Bill Myers (I did a review of the book here.) Last we hit as many RV shows and dealers as possible so we could learn as much as possible.
The other resource we utilized was a comparison guide. This was another useful resource for us.
When we found the MH we liked we made an offer. Now, what I found was that there wasn't as much leeway in pricing as I had hoped, but I did get it down and then negotiated some other items (extended warranty, replacing a fogged bedroom window, etc. and financing). Remember to look at the total purchase cost and negotiate everything.
"Remember to look at the total purchase cost and negotiate everything." Also remember that sales people can, and do, play games with the trade-in. One place may have high asking prices but gives high trade-in allowances, while another has low asking prices and gives low trade-in allowances. The check you write for an identical coach will be the same at both places.
As J & C say, do your research to get an idea of what coaches you are interested in are selling for. Figure your budget, remembering to keep back money for repairs and upgrades. Pay attention to the age of tires and batteries, as those can really cost (an 8D battery is about $500, and tires can be $600 or more each). The seller won't get back all of the money he spent on new tires and batteries, but those may get the coach sold sooner. You, as the buyer, should either make sure that the price reflects old tires and/or batteries (you will then buy what you want) OR the seller will agree to new tires/batteries at the asking price.
On the home page of PPL on the left side mid page is "For your Convenience" The 4th item down is "RV's recently sold" click it and away you go. I selected diesel pushers, but they have listings for all other types of RV's.
Since our Newell is currently for sale on consignment at a dealer here are my thoughts. We have a bottom line price that allows some negotiation. Our coach is in drive away condition and we full timed in it for 2 years. We researched our selling price quite a bit and with the guidance of the dealer set our price.
One of the biggest factors is "cash sale" or "do they need to get a loan"?
Getting a loan for an older coach can be difficult since banks aren't as willing to lend money on an older movable object. So if someone offers a cash price we would be more willing to negotiate.
Also it's nice to know if the owner has a loan on the coach or not.
So my advice would be to try (if possible) to pay cash and have your ducks in a row before you make an offer.
I hope it's ok to post this link to my Newell for sale. If not then please take it down. I have it on consignment at Motorhomes of Texas in Nacogdoches, TX.