Take an extension cord and plug the fridge into the power stand or an outlet in the house if you are at home to quickly decide whether its the coach or fridge.....if it is determined it is the fridge reset the breaker or fuse on the power board...or replace the board(do this last ,because 8 out of 10 times this is not it and boards are$$$)

Also check the switch on the fridge...some have auto sense setting or gas only.....if the button is pushed in in is most likely in LP mode


if it is the coach reset the GFI on the outlet or in the servicebox......if the outlet doesnt reset....replace the GFI outlet

The unplugging The Bear II is talking about needs to include 12 volt, so pull the fuse or turn off 12 volt circuit breaker that says "Refrigerator". If you don't know where that fuse or circuit breaker is, this is an opportunity to find it or have someone who knows find it and show it to you.

Hopefully the suggestions above will solve the problem and reset the computer.  I’d also grab the manual and make sure you understand how to put the refrigerator in “Auto” to allow it to return to AC cooling from LP.  Some newer ones are not that obvious as to what mode they are in. ("Ask me how I know this.")  That said, this might be a good time to mention to those newer RVers reading this threat that RV refrigerators use 12 volts in addition to 120 volts and LP. (Not pure home units - RV refrigerators.)

Yes, they make “cold” using LP or 120 AC volts.  But the controlling brain of the unit runs on 12 volt DC.  Low batteries / 12 volts are a common cause of fridge issues.  It’s also important to realize that without 12 volts almost none of the systems in an RV will work and that likely includes the lights and believe it or not the air conditioners.  Many AC units use 12 volts via the thermostats to turn the units on or off.

Just a little background that might save newer RVers some trouble. RV's are different than a house.  A lot different.