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Post Info TOPIC: Permanent parked Rv


RV-Dreams Community Member

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Permanent parked Rv


I am new to the forum, I have a 1988 Ford Sterling (Made by Glendale RV) 21ft Class C. I was extremely limited by the space allocated to me, and all the 5th wheels & trailers I looked at I didn't like, or were too damn small & cramped. I found this Sterling for $4000 cdn, in very nice shape. The PO had replaced all the inside with new wood, and R40 Blue foam insulation, the holding tanks are foam covered, it has a new 80 liter water tank, and a new 100lb propane tank (permanent mount). 

I am permanently parked, I dont pay rent or hydro. 

Now, my Holding tanks both I know are 100% empty, I dont pour anything solid into the tanks, so I'm allowed to leave the tank open and let the grey water flow out, I have a garden hose adapter on the tank opening, and part of a hose so most of the waste water flows into a pile of pine needles & leaves, I use to filter the grey water. In the summer I'll have to use a small tank, and have the water pumped onto the septic field. 

Issues I currently have:

right now I am noticing my tanks are reading full, although they clearly are not.. 

and my water pump makes an awful noise like a cheap air pump, and the water spits & jumps as it flows out (is it on its way out). 

my Water tank never reads "Full" even when it was over full, and the water was flowing out of the filler neck. 

Can I lift my RV by the rear bumper to lift the rear passenger wheels to get it to sit level ((My guage says it is level, but anything liquid inside the vehicle shows it clearly is not)) (not very easy to drive it, as time is something I dont have a lot of, and using the forklift would be faster & easier for me) or should I find a 5-ton jack, and jack up the axle?? 

OR can I just use leveling jacks on the bumper (there are none currently, but I can get a set for $99. cdn) 



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My driving toys:1998 Mazda MPV 4x4(DD), Looking for a Diesel 4x4 Truck for my DD & 1988 Ford Sterling Class C RV (HOME). My wet toys 9' Bombard RHIB (Zodiac), 2 x 16ft Aluminum Boats. (Starcraft & Aroliner)



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One other question: I have seen RV's with wheel covers, do they really work in stopping UV damage? I was thinking about just using Plywood, and building a frame around the entire bottom half of the RV, keep the weather out from the underside of the RV all together..

Also are there any Vancouver-ites online, I seen a source for a canvas or tarpaulin cover for my RV, I right now, just have a heavy duty poly tarp, but I know with the storms of Howe Sound, it is going to last one season..

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My driving toys:1998 Mazda MPV 4x4(DD), Looking for a Diesel 4x4 Truck for my DD & 1988 Ford Sterling Class C RV (HOME). My wet toys 9' Bombard RHIB (Zodiac), 2 x 16ft Aluminum Boats. (Starcraft & Aroliner)



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Welcome to the Forum.....you basically have 3 questions.....Gauges (old style sensors) are not accurate or reliable, forget them, it doesn't matter as long as you have a handle on your holding tank needs....Water Pump...might be on its way out, might be clogged filter/screen.....locate the pump, look for an inline filter, inspect.....Leveling....lift the rv, place wood, plastic, anything under the tires to level. Use a level on the interior floor to check your adjustment. You don't need to put levels on the bumper since you are stationary...just get a 2 or 4' level and level the floor....both directions...yes sun does damage tires, if you enclose the entire bottom you will also help save on Heating.......

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Pantharen - regarding your comment on tarps - if you make it south of the border to the Seattle area very often there was a business called "Tarp World" off Hwy 167 (in Algona or Auburn, I think) that sold just about every size and type of tarp you can imagine. After a huge windstorm a few years ago we had neighbors buying tarps from him while awaiting roof repairs on the S&B. We had to buy a new tarp for the RV Parking covered area we had and found his prices to be very reasonable compared to anywhere else in the greater Seattle area.

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Tires are only good for about 6 years even under the best of storage conditions. Keep this in mind in case the RV sits for years and then you need to move it, you may need to get a new set of tires depending on how far you will need to drive it.

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NWescapee wrote:

Pantharen - regarding your comment on tarps - if you make it south of the border to the Seattle area very often there was a business called "Tarp World" off Hwy 167 (in Algona or Auburn, I think) that sold just about every size and type of tarp you can imagine. After a huge windstorm a few years ago we had neighbors buying tarps from him while awaiting roof repairs on the S&B. We had to buy a new tarp for the RV Parking covered area we had and found his prices to be very reasonable compared to anywhere else in the greater Seattle area.


 Your Government doesn't like my pot smokin ass.. I'm not allowed in the USA



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My driving toys:1998 Mazda MPV 4x4(DD), Looking for a Diesel 4x4 Truck for my DD & 1988 Ford Sterling Class C RV (HOME). My wet toys 9' Bombard RHIB (Zodiac), 2 x 16ft Aluminum Boats. (Starcraft & Aroliner)



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GENECOP wrote:

Welcome to the Forum.....you basically have 3 questions.....Gauges (old style sensors) are not accurate or reliable, forget them, it doesn't matter as long as you have a handle on your holding tank needs....Water Pump...might be on its way out, might be clogged filter/screen.....locate the pump, look for an inline filter, inspect.....Leveling....lift the rv, place wood, plastic, anything under the tires to level. Use a level on the interior floor to check your adjustment. You don't need to put levels on the bumper since you are stationary...just get a 2 or 4' level and level the floor....both directions...yes sun does damage tires, if you enclose the entire bottom you will also help save on Heating.......


 Eventually (if the owner allows me) I would like to build a fully level (concrete) pad, and then fully enclose the entire RV about 1/2 way up, and then leave enough to anchor the roof canopy cover. 

Heating is the last thing I need to worry about.. with just a oil filled electric heater, it is too damn hot in the RV all the time, I have the door open when I am inside most of the time, and I have the heater on low. So it is extremely well insulated..



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My driving toys:1998 Mazda MPV 4x4(DD), Looking for a Diesel 4x4 Truck for my DD & 1988 Ford Sterling Class C RV (HOME). My wet toys 9' Bombard RHIB (Zodiac), 2 x 16ft Aluminum Boats. (Starcraft & Aroliner)



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I understand the interior is warm but what keeps your water supply from freezing and your holding tanks? Unless they are enclosed and heated they will freeze, so will your hoses....

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GENECOP wrote:

I understand the interior is warm but what keeps your water supply from freezing and your holding tanks? Unless they are enclosed and heated they will freeze, so will your hoses....


 My holding tanks are Winterized, foam coated, with an electric heating blanket over top, wired into the 12v system. My water tank is inside the unit, under one of the dining seats. 
I am going to assume that you know nothing about the Pacific North West.. Winter doesn't happen here like the rest of Canada. We're lucky if we get below 32ºF, our normal winter is in the mid 40's to low 50's. We MIGHT get a week of low 30's.. 



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My driving toys:1998 Mazda MPV 4x4(DD), Looking for a Diesel 4x4 Truck for my DD & 1988 Ford Sterling Class C RV (HOME). My wet toys 9' Bombard RHIB (Zodiac), 2 x 16ft Aluminum Boats. (Starcraft & Aroliner)



RV-Dreams Family Member

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Date:

Pantharen wrote:
GENECOP wrote:

I understand the interior is warm but what keeps your water supply from freezing and your holding tanks? Unless they are enclosed and heated they will freeze, so will your hoses....


 My holding tanks are Winterized, foam coated, with an electric heating blanket over top, wired into the 12v system. My water tank is inside the unit, under one of the dining seats. 
I am going to assume that you know nothing about the Pacific North West.. Winter doesn't happen here like the rest of Canada. We're lucky if we get below 32ºF, our normal winter is in the mid 40's to low 50's. We MIGHT get a week of low 30's.. 


 Sounds like my kind of winter.......I am guessing the water keeps things more mild....



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"Your Government doesn't like my pot smokin ass.. I'm not allowed in the USA"... Priceless.

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RV-Dreams Community Member

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GENECOP wrote:
Pantharen wrote:
GENECOP wrote:

I understand the interior is warm but what keeps your water supply from freezing and your holding tanks? Unless they are enclosed and heated they will freeze, so will your hoses....


 My holding tanks are Winterized, foam coated, with an electric heating blanket over top, wired into the 12v system. My water tank is inside the unit, under one of the dining seats. 
I am going to assume that you know nothing about the Pacific North West.. Winter doesn't happen here like the rest of Canada. We're lucky if we get below 32ºF, our normal winter is in the mid 40's to low 50's. We MIGHT get a week of low 30's.. 


 Sounds like my kind of winter.......I am guessing the water keeps things more mild....

You guys in the east might think that an inch of rain is a lot of water.. we can that an light shower..  I have seen an inch of rain fall in an hour, I have seen 6inches of rain fall in a 12hr period. for us that is called normal precip :P

Snow is reserved for Whistler Mountain.. Remember the 2010 Olympics, when they had to truck snow into some of the local venues... 


 



__________________

My driving toys:1998 Mazda MPV 4x4(DD), Looking for a Diesel 4x4 Truck for my DD & 1988 Ford Sterling Class C RV (HOME). My wet toys 9' Bombard RHIB (Zodiac), 2 x 16ft Aluminum Boats. (Starcraft & Aroliner)

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