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RV-Dreams.com Home -> RV-Dreams Community Forum -> RV Maintenance and Technical Tips -> Winterizing a park model
Post Info TOPIC: Winterizing a park model
Carman98


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Winterizing a park model
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We have a 37 foot park model camper in a campgrounds. I have one question. Under the kitchen sing are two lines one blue and one red made of like a thick nylon hose. They also have two pullup things to drain them.I know these are used to drain the water lines. My question is once the water lines are drained and blown out with air is it necessary to also run anti freeze through these lines. I was told they are burst proof and don't need antifreeze.Please advise. Thanks 



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Workinrvers


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once you are sure the air has blown all the water from the lines it would not be necessary to add antifreeze to the lines. The key is to make sure all the water is blown out of all the lines. You will also need to drain your hot water heater. You still need to put antifreeze down each drain to fill the "P" trap so the water trapped there will not freeze. Don't forget to winterize the washer and it's drain pipe with antifreeze as well.

Phil

ps: also, if you have a built in icemaker in the freezer you will need to address the water line for it as well.

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Lucky Mike


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All waterlines should have antifreeze added .........the manufacturers of Pex....Wirsbo...and other poly type water lines Do Not Guarantee freeze up bursts.

no matter what anyone else tells you.....if you would like a copy of these warnings that have been sent to every installer...I have them and will be more than happy to send you a pdf

Proper weatherization...

if your park model has dump lines open them and all faucets in the unit.....if it does not have dump connections go to the Right hand side of the unit underneath turn main water supply off and disconnect the freshwater line....again open all faucets and drain hot water heater

after unit has drained reconnect fresh water line......

connect blow out plug to outside hose bib or inside cold water washer line.......close all faucets and close clod water shut off valves at hot water heater and replace or close drain plug

set compressor at 30 pounds of pressure .....now from the highest faucet in the unit (shower head unless unit is Equipped with overhead fire sprinkler systems) proceed to open and drain each side of every faucet and valve be sure to close each valve after blowing it out. also make sure to empty toilet tank and bowl....

upon completion of blow out , add 1 to 2 gallons of antifreeze to the connection at blow out.....reverse process one faucet at a time until anti freeze shows at faucet.

Fridge with Ice maker...

raise and lower arm...cycle til water clears and air blows thru....repeat process durring anti freeze

dishwasher...start and cancel sequence until you hear air blow thru valve....please note D/W is on hot water side of water system so valve on hot water tank will have to be open to add air...be sure to blow out several times you will not be able to add antifeeze to this side without bypass

washer....same sequence except you must set for cold wash and then for hot wash

upon completion fill all traps in house with a cup of anti freeze....2 cups in washer tube and spin the unit out

2 cupps in D/W and the turn on and drain




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Workinrvers


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Lucky Mike wrote:

All waterlines should have antifreeze added .........the manufacturers of Pex....Wirsbo...and other poly type water lines Do Not Guarantee freeze up bursts.

no matter what anyone else tells you.....if you would like a copy of these warnings that have been sent to every installer...I have them and will be more than happy to send you a pdf


 I stand corrected, no need for the pdf. The manufacturer recommendations should be followed.



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GENECOP


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Pex lines that have no water can not freeze....the antifreeze in the lines is only there for backup in the event that water is missed during the blowout....between the various valves the lack of pitch and the general poor design for the winterizing process anti freeze is a good bet.....

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