You might want to check with an electrician with regards to using a 220v dryer in an RV.  It can be done, but if I remember right in what others have told me, they have to rewire for that 220v outlet.  I would also have the concern that on a 30 amp circuit (likely with a 20-foot trailer), the amperage draw by the dryer might limit what else you can use at the same time.  To follow up on that limit, you would probably want to find out how many amps the dryer will draw when operating.

While I can't speak to the Sears models, we got side by side Whirlpool products and was able to find a dryer that operated on 110v instead of 220v.  The only thing is that the dryer doesn't "match" the washer because the washer has a window in the front door.

Terry

a) I read the responses concerning the weight of a w/d in such a small travel trailer and I acknowledge that most w/d’s are found in larger RV’s, but my question would be this; if my tow vehicle can tow 11,000lbs... so does it matter if the 11,000lbs is in a 38' 5th wheel or in a 20' travel trailer?

(Also, I have eliminated the oven and slide outs from my floor plan so I will be saving weight there. A w/d combined is about 200lbs.)

b) According to Sears a stackable w/d uses 30AMPS. (Not sure if that is for both running at the same time or 1 at a time) But it does looks like doing the laundry will have to be figured into a scheduled routine where I am not running the a/c or other heavy power loads. I just found a Spendide stackable unit (must be a new product because I only remember them selling those small combo units that hold only wash 2 towels) that uses 15AMPS... but not sure about the quality yet. It looks like it operates on 110vt. So far it looks like a winner.  http://www.splendide.com/compare_specs_stack.htm

c) I am intending to have this travel trailer custom built so reinforcing the floor, installing a vibration mat and placing foam insulation around the w/d are being considered. Those enhancements seem like minimal expense. Is there anything else I can install to minimize the effects when in operation?

d) Just a thought; since the w/d can only be used with hookups I think I am going to bypass the gray tank and run the washer drain line to a valve that can connect directly into my open sewer hose ...... this will prevent a mess if the line ever backs up....soapy water on the floor I can deal with....last nights pasta sauce coming back I’d like to avoid.

Thanks much.
PamINaJAM

Pamela,

All trailers have a GVWR rating (Gross Vehicular Weight Rating) that is determined by the frame size, axle sizes, suspension, and wheels and tires involved in the construction.  If you look at the ratings on most trailers, they will list a dry weight and perhaps a GVWR rating.  If they don't give a GVWR, they may list the dry weight and a cargo carrying capacity (CCC) that will give one an idea of the GVWR for the trailer.  Even with a trailer hooked to a truck, that GVWR should NOT be exceeded.  So, if you've got 200 lbs of washer and dryer, that is going to limit your CCC and push you closer to the GVWR for the trailer.

If you are truly having your trailer custom made, look into seeing if they can "boost" the GVWR by having a stonger frame, heavier axles and wheels and make sure the tires' weight capacities aren't exceeded either.

Also, don't go by the "towing weight" listed by the manufacturer.  Go to the dealership and have them look at your truck's data plate that is located on the door post on the driver's side.  With that information and the engine and transmission sizes, they can provide you with a Gross Combined Vehicular Rating (GCVW) for your truck.  What you will also want to know is the GVWR of your truck.  Then add the GVWR weights of your truck and of your trailer and make sure that the total weight of both vehicles together does not exceed the GCVW for the truck.  Keep in mind that GVWR needs to be calculated/weighed with everything planned to be carried included.  That means passenger, cargo, fuel and perhaps pets for the truck.  Then for the trailer weight, personal stuff (clothes, dishes, extra appliances, etc.), and the weight of any water carried in the tanks and also the weight of full tanks of LPG should all be added together.

Also, make sure that the tongue weight of the trailer added to the truck doesn't cause the truck's GVWR to be exceeded.  That is normally not the case, but I never rule out that someone might also carry a lot of stuff in the bed of the truck.

As for washer operation and the grey tank, when my wife does the laundry, I normally open the valve.  Since our grey tank does not have a flush feature, I figure that the extra water will help to flush the tank some.  The only time I close the grey when she does laundry is so I can get more water in it so that it helps flush the lines after I drain and flush the black tank.  With the tank open, I don't have to constantly check the fluid level in the tank to make sure I don't overfill it.

Also, verify the weights of the washer and dryer.  At least with our Whirlpool set, I'm sure it exceeds 200 lbs.

Terry

you also need to take into account the weight Fulcrum .......on a 20 ft trailer if the weight is forward of the axle it will increase the tongue weight. place it behind the axle it will increase the axle weight......place it on the axle and you increase the weight on the wheel directly below it...


Most smaller travel trailers are not designed for washers......if you were to dismantle a washer there is almost a 100 pounds of concrete balance weights in it add another 75 pounds of parts and shell......now add 20 gallons of water at roughly 125 pounds....and a full load of laundry at 12 pounds


This means you have 300 to 400 pounds dancing on a particle wood floor that is set to the outside of the frame(this will do wonders for the seams).........

Everything above is a proven fact....No opinion involved .......


If you need a Washer in something that small please Look at The Panda line of portable Laundry....or Haier makes some light Weight portables thru Walmart.....

Okay, here is my plan so you can see the proposed W/D layout.  I'd like to have this TT custom built wherever they custom build them.  I have a few names (Spacecraft, Timeless, Recreation By Design), but could use a few more if anyone has them.  I know I will be paying a premium to have one built from the ground up, but I believe the extra $$ will make it more durable, last longer and fit my needs better.  I thank you for any feedback you can give me on design, functionality, etc.  Regards, Pam 

 

 

 

-- Edited by PamINaJAM on Friday 22nd of February 2013 05:37:18 AM

I guess what your asking Pam is something you need to sit with the builder......it will require knowing frame support ,weight distribution,plumbing & a few other factors....

Is the unit going to remain stationary. are you fulltiming continually......Region this unit is going to be are all factors.

you have placed the majority of the dry weight of this unit Behind the axle fulcrum . the weight distribution is unbalanced and when figuring in holding tanks it becomes greater

well if you intend to travel your floor plan will not work ...all your. major weight is behind the axle.and you have no center support factored in to the unit. Its not so much that you meet the towing weight capacity of your truck...the weight within the trailer must be evenly distributed to which it is not. you have not taken into consideration holding tanks and there weight which are behind the axles and again the weight fulcrum...(picture a see-saw with the fat kid on one end and the skinny kid on the other) until it is balanced its not safe to tow..and this is just dry weight before you add anything.

you really need to start with the person doing the build so the engineering process of the project can be discussed..your print is nice but the person building it needs to be with you as you proceed

Thanks again to those that commented.

Terry and Jo:  I planning on having more truck than I need.  If I have to I'll go diesel, but I should be ok with any of the new HD 3/4 ton gas models.

Lucky Mike:  Well, you are right...the heavy things seem to be to one side and mostly towards the rear.  I understand the "see-saw" concept and I am hoping the solution to this is to ADD weight where it's needed to counter balance.  Perhaps the fresh water tank will be located on the opposite side (I'd like to avoid this as the tank might not always be full).... so maybe the solution would be to add some heavy duty batteries underside as weight.  (who couldn't use more batteries?)  I am just guessing that the tanks would be located as close to center underside.

Cindy T & The Bear II:  I am hoping a vibration mat and some solid foam insulation will reduce the shake.  I am working on some ideas for this.

VanMar & WestwardHo:  Slideouts are nice, but for my needs I think I can do without them.  They add a great deal of weight, additional cost, additional maintenance, increase set-up and take off times, might limit parking spots, are a place for rodents and creepys to get in and can be an obstacle when doing a quick road stop to use the bathroom.  In my floor plan I have eliminated the slideouts but allowed for wider (always 36") of walking space.

bjoyce: 38 feet?  does one really need that much space?  Does it have a bowling alley in it?  :)  I think with fuel prices going much higher that "Small is the new BIG."  I once had an apartment in New York City that was smaller than 38x8 and it had a washer and dryer.  Cost me $1800 a month !!!!

Before I did much more planning, I would contact the manufacturers you have in mind. Often with custom designs, there is only so much that can be done because of all the stated reasons. You were discussing custom made cabinetry so you'll need to know the weights on that also before beginning your process. In the trailers we have had, the heavy items like appliances were over the wheels. I like your plan and know that myself, my husband, one son and a 75 lb wonderful dog spent 2 years in a 24 foot (20 foot body/box) and did fine since we liked to be outside and I am obsessively organized. I was wondering where you were thinking of putting the batteries on the underside though. Trailer frames themselves have limits as to how much weight they can carry, something about axle weight and you can't exceed that. Have you found anything by a manufacturer that is close to what you want so you could tweet it from that perspective? I just picked up a copy of the RV Buyer's Guide and they show floor plans or you could go to rvtraderonline and browse what is available, as well as, the individual manufacturer websites and then you could say that you wanted a particular floorplan with such and such changes. Just an idea. We had a Splendide in our last 5th wheel, the one that does the condensing drying, it was sort of cool but with 3 people, we gave it a workout! Also, does anyone know if New Horizons still builds travel trailers as I did see a small one, like 27 feet (24 box) that was a 2004?

Hi all, in regards to concerns over the weight distribution on my floor plan I was sent this link:

www.jagmobilesolutions.com/products/Laundry-Room_14/floor-plans.php

Basically it’s a trailer with a floor plan of 6 washer/dryers on 1 side. Now I’m sure this thing probably gets towed with something like an Army tank, but it does show that a trailer with such a weight disparity can be produced somehow. My guess is that there is something underside that balances it all out .....like concrete.

PamINaJAM

PamInaJam,
Your original post stated "I would like to avoid the Splendide "all-in-one" models". Just wondering if you are aware that Splendide has stackable models. I have the stacking ones and love them. Yes the loads must be small and the dryer is slower than a normal household unit. There are two of us and we do just fine. I can't imagine not having them. Granted we are in a 38' 5th wheel. Ultimately you have to live with whatever you choose. Just wanted to make sure you know about the stacking models. Good luck, whatever you decide.