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We found a used rv that we are considering to buy soon. Since we NEVER bought an rv or drove on an rv, our knowledge is basically zero...
I thought of giving here some details about it and would appreciate to hear your point of view about it .
It is a cross country motorhome 1984 , 34 foot(he does not know if it is 32 or 34...), Runs on propane and gas with a 454 motor with 92000 miles on it,
sleeps 7.has a 5000 watt onan generator, fridge, stove, microwave,shower, bathroom ,furnace , AC,awning new tires on front.
Hot water tank has a leak in the tank but he has a replacement.
It has a separate bedroom at the back with 2 single beds, couch opens to double, dinette opens to a bed.
He bought it 6 years ago and never replaced the breaks,so I don't know how old are they.
He is asking 3500 dollars OBO for it and needs it sold asap.
Based on those features , is it a good price for it, what are the risks with buying 1984 model and what should I look for when I go and see it...
Is there something like a list I could take with me to check when I come there? I was looking on line but could not find something like that list, so I thought maybe you guys could share with me some features to check when I go there.
Thank you so much for your time!!!!
-- Edited by momyfor2 on Monday 3rd of December 2012 09:28:44 PM
I hate to squash anyone's dream, but you did ask for advice, so here goes... Rather than a list of what to look for, I think the best advice I could give would be for you to find someone who is familiar with RVs and can go with you to look at this one. You might even consider having it taken to an RV dealer so they could look at it and give you an estimate on the repairs it will surely need. If the current owner is only asking $3500.00, then he has probably not done any substantive work to and it will likely cost you at least another $3500.00 ( and maybe twice that much) just to make it truly road worthy and ready to be camped in. It might be a good deal, but from the description you are giving here, it sounds like it is going to cost you quite a bit of money after the sale.
Again, I would, at least, take someone with you who is familiar with RVs when you go to look at it...and look at it honestly and be prepared to walk away if you have any bad feeling at all.
Any, I hope you can find a great RV and join all of us here in this wonderful way of life.
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Cindy and Jeff Harvey 2007 International 4400 Hauler (The Big Boss) 2010 Carriage Carri-Lite MAX1
"There are seven days in the week...and none of them are called someday".
I have to agree with Jeff, about taking a knowledgable RV person with you. However the first and easiest thing I would look at, remove ALL the inside vent covers (four screws each) and check the wood for dry rot if it was a wood structured coach
I had a Class B Country Coach of which I later found wood rot in the roof vent area, was an inside strip out in sections. Had to do it as the rig had a wheel chair lift for my late wife. If I had to do it again at my age now, think Id start a fire under the hood and a backfire in the rear to put out the fire in the front. Just kidding but after adding money to something where does one quit.
I will be seriously looking for used DP this spring, I will take an oil analysis myself on the eng and trans and send it to the lab, before purchase so I know factually what Im getting.
Unless someone in your family is very handy and can do repairs and maintenance themselves , I wouldn't buy something of that age. The RV has a great deal of electrical,plumbing and mechanical systems. They will require work. RV repairs are really expensive. Most shops are 100 dollars an hour or more and parts aren't cheap either.
If you can handle the maintenance then make sure you really check it for water leaks! Water can cause huge damage and mold that can be a health hazard, especially fulltiming in it.
Good luck Ray
-- Edited by Raytronx on Tuesday 4th of December 2012 10:26:00 AM
Question; How much more would it cost you in taxes to buy a unit stateside and bring it up there.....there are tons of good units on this side and the northern market is in hibernation because of winter..........example.....95 Winabago with slide ...34 foot ,Genny 52k miles......asking price 8K.....located in northern VT
it might save you a bunch to look outside of your area....
I feel like everyone else.....this unit your looking at has close to 100k on the drive train......on an older RV that means its close to major problems.
Transmission Failure or engine failure and you will be into a major replacement
the coach itself is built on a stick frame for that year.....Dry rot and leaks are a big problem.
Take this unit to an RV Service ,spend the 100 bucks for them to go thru it and give you a list of its problems........better to lose 100 than lose 3500
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1998 ...Harney Renegade DP class A
rers1@mail.com
My Service dog and life partner " Nikki"......Klee Kia Miniature Husky....(she Runs the ship!!)
We are not lost in the Woods.....Just Extreme boondocking!!!!!!
The 454 was a hoss and stronger than strong. However, they were gas hogs in capitals, Propane is a great source of power, but since you have no knowledge about running it as motor fuel, I would advise againse becoming involved. I wore out a Ford pickup on propane, and it is not trouble free. And it is so easy to get out of adjustment, without specific knowledge about it (or finding a propane mechanic) i would give it a pass. The 454 will be carbureted and equipped with a quadrajet to run gasoline. They were/are problematic also. If you are not a hot rodder from the 80's you can't tune it to get over 6 mpg (and that is mostly wishful thinking). However, if you decide to pursue this, make sure you get a qualified assessor to look at all aspects of the RV. An 84 will most likely be wood framed, and subject to rot. The floor will most likely be particle board, and certainly subject to ungluing. We had an 1980 Aluma lite Holiday Rambler that was aluminum framed, (but it had particle board floor), but I do not know about a Cross Country, so a qualified assessor is certainly required or desired. And he should be qualified and certified, not just some ol'boy. Good luck in your choices.
Humm …This is what to do with a 1984, 34 foot motorhome for $3,500., Sharon.
Assuming that your husband is mechanically minded …make a project out of it.
Get the motorhome towed to your driveway. - ‘There’, your husband can see what’s wrong with it.
Be sure the water lines are empty ...and be especially sure the motor radiator has antifreeze in it. - or Calgary - as you know - with it's super cold - will crack the motor block. - And, then, you'll have to replace the whole motor!
‘Over time’ – months/years - he can fix the things that need fixing, while still working at his job.
Once he has everything fixed and working, you can get it ‘roadworthy certified’ and ‘air certified’.…and head for the open road!
Humm …This is what to do with a 1984, 34 foot motorhome for $3,500., Sharon.
Assuming that your husband is mechanically minded …make a project out of it.
Get the motorhome towed to your driveway. - ‘There’, your husband can see what’s wrong with it.
Be sure the water lines are empty ...and be especially sure the motor radiator has antifreeze in it. - or Calgary - as you know - with it's super cold - will crack the motor block. - And, then, you'll have to replace the whole motor!
‘Over time’ – months/years - he can fix the things that need fixing, while still working at his job.
Once he has everything fixed and working, you can get it ‘roadworthy certified’ and ‘air certified’.…and head for the open road!
Personally, I believe the best time to "see what's wrong with it" is BEFORE one buys the RV. Even if one is mechanically minded, with all the possible things that could be wrong with a nearly 30-year-old RV, the $3500 cost could escalate exponentially.
Just a thought.
Terry
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Terry and Jo
2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3 2008 Ford F450 2019 Ford Expedition Max as Tag-along or Scout
Humm …This is what to do with a 1984, 34 foot motorhome for $3,500., Sharon.
Assuming that your husband is mechanically minded …make a project out of it.
Get the motorhome towed to your driveway. - ‘There’, your husband can see what’s wrong with it.
Be sure the water lines are empty ...and be especially sure the motor radiator has antifreeze in it. - or Calgary - as you know - with it's super cold - will crack the motor block. - And, then, you'll have to replace the whole motor!
‘Over time’ – months/years - he can fix the things that need fixing, while still working at his job.
Once he has everything fixed and working, you can get it ‘roadworthy certified’ and ‘air certified’.…and head for the open road!
Personally, I believe the best time to "see what's wrong with it" is BEFORE one buys the RV. Even if one is mechanically minded, with all the possible things that could be wrong with a nearly 30-year-old RV, the $3500 cost could escalate exponentially.
Just a thought.
Terry
Beyond everyone’s obvious knowledge of typical human behavior before immediate purchase …did I miss something?
I perform 90% of my own work but even I would be a little concerned buying a rig that old. That doesn't mean it can't be a good unit but find out as much about it before you buy.
If you can find someone that is good that does inspections, that would be your best bet although a bad inspection is as bad as none at all. We just bought a house built in 1927 that had not been lived in for a year and we did not get a home inspection but this is our 4th older house and my husband is capable of doing a lot of the repairs and that is an essential element in not getting th inspection. We have bought older RVs without getting them inspected especially our first motorhome, used one. There are a lot of possible expenses. These are what come to mind: (1) the condition of the roof, checking for leaks on the ceiling and look closely in case they have tried to fix it by painting and even the paints that are supposed to cover water spots never do that good of job. If you look at it shortly after a rain, that is a real bonus. (2) The tires. Even if they look OK, if they have been on the vehicle for more than 6 years, it is recommended that they be changed so you'll to look and I would price new tires either way to see the expense. (3) The refrigerator is another high dollar item and many fail to properly cool when they are older. Because of the high expense in replacing one with an RV refrigerator, some pull them out and put an electric one in and while this would reduce the value of a newer model, in yours I don't see it making a difference unless you plan to boondock. (4) The air conditioner may not cool properly if it still works. (5) If this has been sitting, water lines may leak and you'll want to realize that before something is dripping or has soaked through the floor. (6) Propane lines may leak. (7) Upholstery fabric may be rotted as well as the foam. If you can make your own replacement cushions and curtains, things like that, this can be a minor deal with a good price. (8) Any bathroom or kitchen faucets can leak but if you can replace them, again not that big of deal. Those are a few of the things I can think of. Of course, the engine is another matter but I can't really help there. Note: If you "google", "Pre-Inspection checklist for an RV", that will bring up a listing of choices that I just came across. Good luck either way and I'm sure you'll find a "fit", we all do.