Concerns/Discussion About Types of Insulation in RVs - RV-Dreams Community Forum

Bobbi · RV-Dreams Family Member

Concerns/Discussion About Types of Insulation in RVs

GENECOP · RV-Dreams Family Member

Bobbi welcome to the Forum, as you pointed out there are so many factors that go into how warm and comfortable an RV will be and R Values are just a small part of the picture. No one can really tell you what's better and why (they can but it will be mostly an opinion) for example the brochures can state R40---R30, whatever and if the install is sloppy which unfortunately is often the case the R Value means little. Windows, body material, caulking and sealing.......heating systems, duct locations,,EtC....ETc....So what to do, for me the first thing to consider is your RV use, heavy winter use? Full time living? Summer weekends? In general Floorplans and functionality should be paramount, unless you plan on doing heavy winter camping which By The Way eliminates 90% of the RV,s available I would not sweat R values.....Even though manufacturers are quick to throw around R values and winter ability, most are really not up to the challenge of Freezing temps......

Terry and Jo · RV-Dreams Family Member

Gene is giving you some good advice, Bobbi. Probably the most important thing to consider is where you will be wintering and whether circumstances will force you to stay in cold climates or not. If one is traveling with the weather, then the R factors are less important. However, that R rating also works for the cooling side of the equation as well. If you are going to be spending a lot of time in hot climates, the R factor is important.

The R factor was important for Jo and I because we live in Oklahoma City where our lows in winter can get down into the teens and the highs in the summer up over 100 degrees. In fact, two years ago, OKC set new records for the number of days where the temperatures exceeded 100. To remain comfortable, both 15K btu air conditioners were running and two oscillating fans inside were going as well. Even with that, I was shirtless and in shorts to remain comfy. We were very glad of the R rating and the 3 1/4" walls that our Mobile Suites has. Our situation is that we will be "static" full-timers and living here in OKC for a few years yet to come.

Good luck with all the research with the insulation factors, but considering that RV's experience a minor earthquake every time they are moved, the "foundation" of the RV is important as well. That foundation involves the frame, suspension, wheels and tires. Those need to be pretty heavy, especially if one is going to be full-timing instead of part-timing.

Terry

Cindy T · RV-Dreams Family Member

We're fulltimers currently living in Colorado, so we have potentially quite cold winters & summers that can get above 100 degrees. We wanted a rig that was suitable for fulltime living in all kinds of climates. So the insulation is important, as well as some other things. In any climate, dual pane windows help with temperature & noise insulation. If you're going to be parked & living in the RV, you can skirt it, which helps keep it warmer. Just today, we hung thermal curtains over our big windows to help keep the warmth in & cold out. So I think you're right to consider R values, as well as consider the way in which the RV will be used and the other features that the RV has to help keep you comfy inside.

Delaine and Lindy · RV-Dreams Family Member

Fact is no RV is energy efficient. The design prevents, such as open air under the unit. We have owned 6 5th wheels. And our last to was the best as for heating and cooling. But when temps are extremely high over a 100 degrees for several days, you will need two A/C's. We haven't been in extremely cold weather. This winter we returned back to home base, because of the election and think we had better be at home base. I had never winterized a RV, until this year. Had to contact our friend Paul and learn what we had to do.. R values are important, but your still in a RV. As Terry said, we a 3 1/4" walls a industry best and we believe we have as good as you get for R values. All RV's have issues with windows keeping cool or warm. I agree with Cindy thermal curtains will help, and a big help is skirting.. Just think why do bridges freeze first. The best thing is go South in the winter and the mountains in the Summer.. Good Luck. Happy Trails....

Trabuco · RV-Dreams Family Member

We are currently wintering 3 hours south of the Canadian border. Snow, 20 degree temps and ice. I have a small heater in the wet bay which takes care of heating the holding tanks, water tank and water lines.

Two heat pumps and 2 furnaces has kept all forty feet toasty. Heat pumps during the day and furnace at night. We will go through about 30 gals of propane in roughly 6 weeks or so. No freeze issues to this point.

Bill and Linda · RV-Dreams Family Member

Delaine and Lindy wrote:
Fact is no RV is energy efficient. The design prevents, such as open air under the unit. We have owned 6 5th wheels. And our last to was the best as for heating and cooling. But when temps are extremely high over a 100 degrees for several days, you will need two A/C's. {Edit} All RV's have issues with windows keeping cool or warm. I agree with Cindy thermal curtains will help, and a big help is skirting.. Just think why do bridges freeze first.

X2 on the Air Conditioning units. In almost any RV over 32 or so feet, in hot weather (90 and up) you simply need two AC units in most all situations - even into the evening - the second one acting as a "helper" to the main unit. This is a big deal IMO – been there. Just like a car, no amount of “R” value will overcome the relatively small area of an RV that will absorb heat, or lose it, very quickly. You have to overcome that heat with simple brute force just like a car AC or heater does.

As was said, the first priority is the layout and storage capability of the rig along with quality construction – however you define quality. Only you can determine what layout is right for you. But if it is a large rig you will need two AC units, maybe three, in a Toy Hauler depending on what you are going to do with that “garage” space. No amount of “R” value will make one AC unit work unless you are really into being really warm as an OK condition. You can supplement the gas furnace with electric space heaters on a really cold day. Remember the “Heat Pumps” in the AC units are almost useless below about ~38 degrees. Some can work a bit lower but that is a good rule of thumb number.

“R” value is important, but not the ultimate determine factor in selecting a rig.

My 2 cents

Bill

jayc · RV-Dreams Family Member

Come over to the Heartland Owners forums to speak to other actual owners of Cyclone and other toy haulers. It is not uncommon for the brand manager to come on to answer questions. There are several folks there that live in theirs full time and one in particular that has lived in Wyoming during the winter in below zero temps.

Good luck with your choice.

Foxy · RV-Dreams Community Member

I'd probably go with foam-more structural integrity higher r-Value per inch and moistureproof (a vapor barrier is not necessarally needed). Astrofoil doesn't really add r-Value unless there is a 3/4 inch space between it and the batts otherwise it just act as a conductor.

heyjohnm · RV-Dreams Family Member

Foxy wrote:
I'd probably go with foam-more structural integrity higher r-Value per inch and moistureproof ...

The HitchHiker brand from NuWa uses a Dow blue structural foam as the core of its sidewalls. They claim added structural strength and R value over similar dimension white foam and greatly reduced moisture absorption over other foam or fiberglass insulation products.

http://www.nuwa.com/faqs/questions/16/

Bobbi · RV-Dreams Family Member

Thank you to everyone for your contributions to my thread. I appreciate it! :>)

Jack Mayer · RV-Dreams Family Member

heyjohnm wrote:
Foxy wrote:
I'd probably go with foam-more structural integrity higher r-Value per inch and moistureproof ...
The HitchHiker brand from NuWa uses a Dow blue structural foam as the core of its sidewalls. They claim added structural strength and R value over similar dimension white foam and greatly reduced moisture absorption over other foam or fiberglass insulation products.
http://www.nuwa.com/faqs/questions/16/

New Horizons uses a similar foam. What you say is accurate. Most manufacturers use the cheaper white foam. It does not have as much R value.

SnowGypsy · RV-Dreams Family Member

My interest in the fiberglass batten was that it made the inside of the RV quieter. I don't care for foam in general.

kb0zke · RV-Dreams Family Member

Many years ago we belonged to a congregation that had four a/c units to cool the building. One of the four died, and they thought they didn't have the $700 to replace it. (Told you it was a long time ago.) About a month later a second one died. They were sure that they didn't have $1400 to replace two units. Two weeks later the third one died. They decided that they had to spend the $2100 to replace the units then. Had they replaced the first one right away it would only have cost them $700. Unless one is looking at a home-built rig, the number of heating/cooling units has been carefully calculated. If the coach has four a/c units on the roof it is because it needs all four under certain conditions.

Terry and Jo · RV-Dreams Family Member

When Jo and I were researching choices for various RV's, I would get online and search for images that were taken during factory tours. In that process, one may have to find an owner's association and register to ask the members if they have any "factory tour" photos. In doing that, we ended up with photos for the Tiffin Phaetons and the DRV Suites brands.

Below are some pictures of some of the insulation in the DRV Suites, and below is a link to my Photobucket account showing a bunch of photos from someone else's tour.

Door side wall:

Insulating under the nose:

Off door side wall:

Insulating the underbelly:

Link to DRV Suites factory photos

Terry