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80 for material .......and just about any upolstery shop or canvas shop would probably do the work of sewing the piping for 150........but because you supplied the materials you will end up with no warranty.
Try a canvas shop or Sail maker....normally around any good size marina and I will bet they have what you need in scrap at the right price ready to be made !!
Ive added a few links with lower prices and info for your research hope they help!!
We recently replaced the slide awning fabric on our “small” bedroom slide and I was wondering how many other people do the work themselves?(The slide awning do not have near the tension the large shade awning on the side of RVs have, so there is little risk of getting a finger hurt.)
The slide awning is a Carefree and measures 24” x 84”, and the replacement fabric cost $150, plus shipping.The fabric they used is simple and $150 seemed a lot for less than a yard of fabric and two cords sewed in place.I have 2 larger ones to replace and think they are going to cost @$500, so I am looking for alternatives.
I looked online, and could have purchased the materials to make my bedroom slide for less than $80 using Sunbrella - a better material.I believe I could get an upholstery shop to sew the two lines cheap…Has anyone ever tried making their own awning fabric?
The old style or manual awnings I find are built better and yes its nice to know it is going to be rigid on its supports when open correctly and the tarp is taught........the new power units tarp is loose and bars are not taught when fully opened.
its always a shame when someone tries to reinvent the wheel with a better idea, and then tries to think about it after!!
The aluminum housings are good they create less drag on the awning while driving . they cut down on damage to the tarp while going through all the well trimmed trees at all the rv parks
-- Edited by Lucky Mike on Thursday 11th of October 2012 05:50:32 PM
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1998 ...Harney Renegade DP class A
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My Service dog and life partner " Nikki"......Klee Kia Miniature Husky....(she Runs the ship!!)
We are not lost in the Woods.....Just Extreme boondocking!!!!!!
Some friends used mesh fabric to keep leaves and debris off, but not water. They swear it was one of the best changes they made especially in high winds.
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Bill Joyce, 40' 2004 Dutch Star DP towing an AWD 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Journal at http://www.sacnoth.com Full-timing since July 2003
We spoke with a Camp Host at a local state park yesterday and he swears by his manual awning. He said the automatic awnings are not as tight and flop more. I would like to hear from some of you 'ol pros. What do you think? Again, back to the Trilogy, the awnings (all of them) are encassed in an aluminum housing. Would that help anything?
Looking at my Landmark slide awning fabric it appears to be a fabric commonly known in the upholstery trade as 'Herculite' Herculite is also used as pool liner fabric. it has a nylon woven into the material which adds strength. There are different weights of the fabric. Normally the material comes in 54" widths and it is sold by the yard. Obvisouly the lighter the weight the thinner the fabric. That being said, you could also use a sunbrella canvas commonly used for boat covers will also work. It comes in 60" widths and is also sold by the yard. Both of these fabrics will not mildew or rot when rolled if wet. Sail fabric will work, but will mildew if wet when rolled up. You may want to check with a reputable Upholstery Shop normally they will sell and sew the material. Since you did most of the labor by removing the old one, it shouldn't cost that much.
The link to tough Tops is the vendor I purchased the fabric from. They sell a very good quality product. I used them on a prior class A, but sold it a year later. The slide awning were still in good shape...
Am I the only one that replaces these myself, does everyone else pay for this???
you could also use a sunbrella canvas commonly used for boat covers will also work. It comes in 60" widths and is also sold by the yard. Both of these fabrics will not mildew or rot when rolled if wet.
Robert,
My boat has bow and ****pit covers that came with the boat when new. It is eleven years old and they are in great shape. It has spent all but three winters setting outside. Problem is, the covers do mildew badly on the underside. It is a Maxum boat and I thought all boats use Sunbrella for their covers. When installed properly, there isn't any air circulation. Could that be the problem? Or maybe it isn't Sunbrella material?
True Sunbrella Canvas does not mildew. I suspect you do not have a Sunbrella canvas. Water beads on Sunbrella much like wax on a car. On another note, if you have eleven years on your cover your doing good. This is taken from the Sunbrella Web Site:
Heavy cleaning for stubborn stains and mildew
Sunbrella fabric does not promote mildew growth, however, mildew may grow on dirt and other foreign substances that are not removed from the fabric. To clean mildew, or other stubborn stains: 1.Eight ounces (one cup) of chlorine bleach. 2.Two ounces (1/4 cup) of mild detergent. 3.One gallon of water. 4.Clean with soft bristle brush. 5.Allow mixture to soak into the fabric for up to 15 minutes. 6.Rinse thoroughly until all detergent residue is removed. 7.Air dry. 8.Repeat if necessary. 9.Re-treatment of fabric for water and stain resistance will be necessary.
View the Sunbrella fabric Stain chart.
If a boat cover is suitable in size for a washing machine, these steps should be followed: 1.Use mild detergent. 2.For heavier stains add 1 cup of bleach to wash. 3.Wash and rinse in cold water. 4.Air dry. Never apply heat to Sunbrella. 5.Re-treatment for water and stain resistance will be necessary after machine washing.
Re-treating the fabric
As part of the finishing process, Sunbrella fabrics are treated with a fluorocarbon finish, which enhances water repellency. This finish is designed to last for several years, but must be replenished after a thorough cleaning. Based on test results, Glen Raven recommends 303 High Tech Fabric Guard™ as the preferred re-treatment product for Sunbrella fabrics. Fabrics should be re-treated after thorough cleaning or after five years of use.
Applying 303 High Tech Fabric Guard
303 should be applied to Sunbrella fabrics after each thorough cleaning, which typically removes the original finish and reduces the fabric’s water repellency. 1.Clean Sunbrella fabric, using one of the cleaning methods. 2.Allow Sunbrella to completely air dry. 3.Apply 303 Fabric Guard in a well ventilated area following instructions on the container. 4.Apply 303 in a thin, even coat and allow fabric to dry completely. 5.Apply a second thin, even coating of 303. (Two light coatings are more effective in restoring fabric water resistance than a single heavy coating. A 15-ounce bottle provides coverage of up to 50 square feet of fabric.)
One concern I have about using Sunbella material is getting it to slide in the awning tracks. Sunbella material is more course than the sheeting tough tops uses and may not slide and get stuck. That is why I am looking for someone who has already done this...
You can spray the track and the end of the fabric with silicone spray, you will be amazed how easy it will slide into the track. Be sure to use a dry silicone
I used to own a upholstery shop for over 20 years before getting into my new profession. We did numerous RV awning replacements. We used a lot of Sunbrella canvas due to the fact the life span was very good. The main thing about any cover you decide to go with is to keep it clean and protect it with 303 at least every 6 months. It will last a very long time. Also sunbrella is very light weight, when it is new it is stiff and will roll very easy. I sold a lot of sunbrella in my day. I used to have the customer hold their hand under it has I turned on the water faucet over the canvas. No water penetration at all. When I turned off the water I slaped the sunbrella with my hand and it was as dry as a bone. Just trying to help...