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We are just starting to look at motor homes to retire in. We would like a 36 or longer diesel pusher but new they are way out of our price range. We don't think we would be happy in anything smaller.
What kind of problems have people had with motorhomes over 5 years old. I would think the power train is going to outlive the home itself. I drive truck and my company runs thier tractors for 400,000 miles with little problem with the drive train and still going strong. Freightliner chassis' are totally used up though.
I have always maintained my own vehicles but most of my tools will have to be sold as we won't be able to take them with us.
We are looking primarily at Tiffin, Winnebago ane Numar.
We purchased an 05 Monaco Diplomat last sept. with 21k on it. I had a service tech change all fluids and all filters as well as go through all house systems. He said the unit was in great shape and just get out drive it and use it. Even with 21k on the unit he said the brakes were at 95%. I don't ever see us having to repalce brakes!
The only problem I've had so far is a leaking front jack I had repaired. I've made some up dates to it myself like pulling out the old CRT TV's and adding LED's. Changed out the old mattress and added a sleep number. Really just minor things for personal preference. I'm currently in the process of installing a Progressive Energy Management System.
I'm new to the DP thing and am still learning but I'm real happy with my decision. I looked at a number of units locally before purchasing the Monaco and the majority of them were in real good shape.
There are many 30 year old motorhomes out there going strong. Stuff breaks, but it is normally the house part, not the engine or chassis. Check for water leaks, condition of appliances, has the maintenance been done, etc.
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Bill Joyce, 40' 2004 Dutch Star DP towing an AWD 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Journal at http://www.sacnoth.com Full-timing since July 2003
Thanks Bill and Ken. Bill, Do you take your Harley with you. One of the main reasons I am focusing on a DP is hitch rating. My DW will never get me to part with our house if the bike can't come with us. I need something capable of carrying a 600 lb bike and towing a car. I'm sure the lifts must weigh at least 200 lbs as well.
We haven't started fulltiming yet but the plan is to take the Harley on the rear of the MH using a lift mounted to the rear of the MH. If you plan on carrying a motorcycle go online and check out the lifts first. They have the numbers on how much weight it will add to your rig and it's alot. A 600 lbs bike could add as much as 1800lbs to your MH. It has a lot to with the distance from the rear wheels to the back of the MH plus the weight of the lift. After you have those numbers pay attention to the CCC numbers of the motorhome you look at.
Two of the lifts out there are cruizerlift.com and hydralift.com (spelling)
Like the trucks you drive, motorhome drivetrains are based on the same components used in commercial trucks.
You can expect a motorhome to have 200,000 plus trouble free miles provided it is driven well and maintained properly.
I would look for a low mileage (under 10,000 per year) and well maintained motorhome. Ask to see the service documents.
Since you are able to work on the motorhome you can expect a few $500 to $1200 parts to go bad on the drivetrain and living portion after 7 years. From 7-20 years you may see one or two problems pop up each year depending on how much travelling you do. If you weren't able to work on it then the costs will double or triple as you add in labor and overhead costs for a RV mechanic or dealer.
Good luck on your search
Keep an eye on the motorhomes at www.racingjunk.com I've seen some good buys there.
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"Small House, Big Yard "
"May the FOREST be with you" Alfa See-Ya 5'er and 2007 Kodiak C4500 Monroe
Thanks, Don't know how much engine work I will be able to do. Modern diesels are like modern trucks, if you don't have a computer you are dead in the water. I had a problem last week with not building air pressure and couldn't even find the air compressor on a Mercedes engine. That was on a conventional where youn can tilt the hood to see the engine. Must be a nightmare on a DP.
And thanks for the additional input Ken. Didn't realize how much the lift would weigh but that definately confirms the need for a DP. Ive driven trucks that were loaded with too much weight on the rear and was very scary trying to keep it going in a straight line.
Just bought an 05 Class A Country Coach with 25K mileage. These homes on wheels are much like a giant earthquake riding down the road, expect things to be shaken up a little. I think they key is "Maintenance", if they are well maintained, like anything else, they'll last forever; if neglected, they'll need some TLC. Problems we have fixed include leaking slides, battery charge, tight entry doors, dry PTO yoke, and smog in between sealed windows. Those are good names you're looking at - good luck in finding your dream home on wheels!
PS: Manual is your friend!
-- Edited by HomeSweetRV on Sunday 25th of March 2012 05:26:04 PM
I have a Hydralift on the back of my rig. (Link to pictures below.) With the electric controlled hydraulics this unit is sweet. Typically I'm carrying a CBR 1000 which is only about 450 lbs. but I have also carried an ST1300 @ ~ 750 lbs. No problem the lift is modestly rated for 1000 lbs. with a tow of 10,000. With the HD chasis and air suspension the lift & MC is a piece of cake for the rig to carry. This has travelled all over the lower 48 from CA to ME & FL to OR, I highly recommend it. I could easily tow a car but have no need. Just thought you might be interested.