Hi Everyone. Well, after 15 years the RV-Dreams Community Forum is coming to an end. Since it began in August 2005, we've had 58 Million page views, 124,000 posts, and we've spent about $15,000 to keep this valuable resource for RVers free and open. But since we are now off the road and have settled down for the next chapter of our lives, we are taking the Forum down effective June 30, 2021. It has been a tough decision, but it is now time.


We want to thank all of our members for their participation and input over the years, and we want to especially thank those that have acted as Moderators for us during our amazing journey living and traveling in our RV and growing the RV-Dreams Family. We will be forever proud to have been founders of this Forum and to have been supported by such a wonderful community. Thank you all!!

Members Login
Username 
 
Password 
    Remember Me  
Post Info TOPIC: Hitch


RV-Dreams Family Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 851
Date:
Hitch


We just saw a Heartland MPG that we like. Our tow vehicle is a 2005 Mountaineer with a tow package. Mercury says that anything over 3500 lbs GW needs an equalizing hitch. The dealer said that ALL trailers ought to have one. True?

We are actually more interested in a Casita or Eggcamper. Both are considerably lighter than the MPG, so we're wondering if an equalizer is necessary.

The brand that the MPG dealer is selling is Equal-i-zer. The advertising sounds good, but I don't always believe the advertising. I like the fact that it is still made in America. Is this something that we ought to have?

__________________

David, kb0zke

1993 Foretravel U300 40'

Build number 4371

For sale



RV-Dreams Family Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 2074
Date:

Assuming “all trailers” is limited to RV types, yes, unless it is a really really light trailer, (light in tongue weight and the tow vehicle is much larger than the trailer)  equalizing hitches are a very good thing and necessary IMO.  Here’s why (and from personal – read bad, experience.)

The purpose of an equalizing hitch is to transfer or “equalize” the hitch or tongue weight over both the rear and front wheels of the car or truck.  By doing this the front wheels are kept on the ground and not lifted.  This significantly improves safety as the front wheels now have weight on them and can better steer the vehicle.  It also can reduce sway to some extent.

If you think about it, when you put weight on the very back of the tow vehicle it will “raise” the front.  When that happens you get less front steering control then is acceptable. (The trailer is a lever on the tow vehicle at the ball hitch and the rear axle is the fulcrum.)  I can tell you from personal experience you just don’t want that, especially when a large semi goes by you at 75 miles an hour and “sucks” that trailer into the passing lane and then it whips back into your lane when the vacuum subsides.  With poor weight on the front wheels you may not be able to stop that swing and “loose it.”  I am not exaggerating.  I know that from personal experience because of some bad advice I got a long long time ago about how to properly connect and level an equalizing hitch.  I now know better.

All that said, dealers sometimes like to sell stuff, but assuming a lot of things which you haven’t told us, yes, you need an equalizing hitch appropriate to your tow vehicle and trailer – along with an appropriate anit-sway control system.  (Follow Ford's recommendations for the Mountaineer.  The "tow package" has nothing to do with this specific issue.)

Safe travels

Bill



__________________

Bill & Linda



RV-Dreams Family Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 289
Date:

My answer can be much shorter than Bill's, which by the way I agree with everything that he says.  Spend the extra $100 and get it, you may never realize it but sometime down the road you'll be glad you did. Doing the other way around can be a very bad experience, not having it and needing it. It's like a parachute you only need it once and if you don't have it you are out of luck. 
 
 
Flyone

__________________

Team Cockrum:
2001, F250 Diesel, 2012 33 FT. CrossRoads Cruiser Fifth Wheel



RV-Dreams Family Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 184
Date:

Please, please do not tow with your Mountaineer without a weight distribution or equalizer hitch,and sway control. Bill has already given you an example of exactly what happened to me on the I-5 in California, many years ago, towing a 19' TT, with an Explorer. Omission of a sway bar, and improper hook up of the hitch caused me to be in a Roll-Over accident, in which both the trailer and Explorer were totalled. All because the RV dealer was only interested in selling me a trailer, not in safety. If it weren't for two truckers behind me, who saw what was happening from behind, and effectively stopped traffic behind me, I'd have been dead for sure, according to CHP. It took me years to get up the courage to tow again, and now, I assure you, I've always got more truck and more hitch than I need, for whatever I'm towing. Do not take shortcuts with this, please.

Richard

__________________

Richard & Ginny, travel with Buster,our Schnauzer boy. 2010 Ford Lariat PSD;2011 Open Range 345 RLS, 5th wheel."Not all who wander are lost".



RV-Dreams Family Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 851
Date:

Thanks for all of the comments. Yes, we WILL get an equalizing hitch. Yesterday the dealer quoted us $700 for the hitch and $90 for the brake controller. Today the price is $650 for both, and the price of the trailer was also dropped significantly.

__________________

David, kb0zke

1993 Foretravel U300 40'

Build number 4371

For sale



RV-Dreams Family Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 2074
Date:


Yes sir, this is why I give all the info when I answer a question.  If you understand why you do something, and how to do it, then you will be able to make informed decisions.

My problem came from “campground experts” who told my Dad to “always put the hitch in chain link number 3.”  Well, that’s fine if “link number 3” is the correct one for that rig and hitch combination.  In my father’s case, well over 35 years ago, it was all wrong and caused an accident.  After that, I decided I would become informed as to “why and how” as well just the “do" part.

Safe travels

Bill




rclvnv wrote:

Please, please do not tow with your Mountaineer without a weight distribution or equalizer hitch,and sway control. Bill has already given you an example of exactly what happened to me on the I-5 in California, many years ago, towing a 19' TT, with an Explorer. Omission of a sway bar, and improper hook up of the hitch caused me to be in a Roll-Over accident, in which both the trailer and Explorer were totalled. All because the RV dealer was only interested in selling me a trailer, not in safety. If it weren't for two truckers behind me, who saw what was happening from behind, and effectively stopped traffic behind me, I'd have been dead for sure, according to CHP. It took me years to get up the courage to tow again, and now, I assure you, I've always got more truck and more hitch than I need, for whatever I'm towing. Do not take shortcuts with this, please.

Richard




 



__________________

Bill & Linda



RV-Dreams Family Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 642
Date:

Better option for an anti-sway bar is 3P hitch. It is a newer version of the Hensley Arrow, but designed by Jim Hensley and produced by Sean Woodruff, who was the cheif engineer for Hensley Arrow for a lot of years. His business attitude is excellent. (I have no connection with 3P) Of course, the best is not inexpensive, but it eliminates the possibility of sway and provides a safe platform. One guy in Canada has installed Hensley Arrows on Dodge midsize cars to tow 30+ ft trailers and swears by them.

__________________
Ken and Fran 2006 Sunnybrook F250 SD CC PSD
Page 1 of 1  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.

Tweet this page Post to Digg Post to Del.icio.us