Hi Everyone. Well, after 15 years the RV-Dreams Community Forum is coming to an end. Since it began in August 2005, we've had 58 Million page views, 124,000 posts, and we've spent about $15,000 to keep this valuable resource for RVers free and open. But since we are now off the road and have settled down for the next chapter of our lives, we are taking the Forum down effective June 30, 2021. It has been a tough decision, but it is now time.


We want to thank all of our members for their participation and input over the years, and we want to especially thank those that have acted as Moderators for us during our amazing journey living and traveling in our RV and growing the RV-Dreams Family. We will be forever proud to have been founders of this Forum and to have been supported by such a wonderful community. Thank you all!!

Members Login
Username 
 
Password 
    Remember Me  
Post Info TOPIC: HITCH-RECEIVER OVER LOAD


RV-Dreams Community Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 4
Date:
HITCH-RECEIVER OVER LOAD


 I was just getting ready to order my new tow vehicle [a 2011 Ford E-350 V-10 Standard Length Cargo Van with a 4.10 rear axle and a Max Tow = 10,000 lbs]

and my new travel trailer [a 2011 Rockwood Signature Ultra-Lite 8317SS: 33 ft., Dry Trailer Wt. 5852 lbs., Dry Tongue Wt. 948 lbs., GVWR 8273 lbs. This is a Bunkhouse model with 4 bunks in the back] when I noticed in the Ford brochure that my receiver was only able to handle a maximum Tongue Weight of 1,000 lbs. WITH a Weight Distribution Hitch (WD). Unfortunately, when I added up the Trailer’s dry Tongue Wt. (948 lbs) plus full propane tanks (60 lbs) plus Battery (30 lbs) I was already over the 1000 lb. max. by 38 lbs. When I called my so-called experts (the Ford & Rockwood salesmen) they apologized that they had “missed” that small detail. Well, this angered me, and I told them that the deal is dead until a solution if found.

 

The Ford dealer told me I could buy an after-market hitch-receiver that would give me 12,000 / 1200 WD. I told him that I was planning on filling up the trailer’s front pass-through storage area, and that having only an extra 162 lbs. of capacity wasn’t going to be enough. He then told me that he would try to find a Class V hitch that would increase my Receiver to a max. of 1400 lbs. with a WD hitch. The Rockwood dealer told me that the factory purposely designed the Bunkhouse model with a heavy Tongue Wt. because they expected that parents would be filling up the Bunkhouse area with a lot of “stuff” for the kids. By having all of that “kid’s stuff” in the back of the trailer, the Tongue Weight would lighten up.

 

QUESTION: Because I am planning on parking the trailer for 1-3 months at a time in remote locations, and because the refrigerators/freezers are so small in trailers, I was concerned that my diet would suffer. Therefore, I planned on buying a small chest freezer that I could fill up and use while I’m parked, but empty before I “hit the road” again. I was planning on removing all of the bunks in the back Bunkhouse, and use that empty area for my office and for a place to put the chest freezer. The freezer is very small (only 28” wide x 24” deep x 33” ht. and only weighs ~ 100 lbs. empty). When filled, the freezer will hold up to 228 lbs. So, using the above information, does it seem feasible that I could fill up my trailer’s forward pass-through storage area, and then use the freezer’s empty weight (100 lbs) or full weight (228 + 100 = 328 lbs.) or some weight in between to “offset” the weight in the front of the trailer, thereby keeping my tongue weight less than 1200 lbs???

 

Thanks for your help, Jim

jmulligan3@aol.com

__________________


RV-Dreams Family Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 26
Date:

Jim,

First make sure the tongue and dry weights listed by the manufacturer are "real". Many times these numbers are somewhat light compared to the real world. Then consider what optional equipment will add to those weights and don't forget any liquids you may carry in the various tanks onboard. If at all possible I would get actual weights from a unit on the dealers lot.

To find out how adding or removing items from a trailer will affect the tongue weight do the following:

(1) For items positioned behind the axle measure from the axle to the center of gravity of the item and multiply that distance in inches times the weight of the item. Assign a negative sign to this number if the item is being added to the trailer. Assign a positive sign to this number if the item is being removed from the trailer.

(2) For items positioned in front of the axle measure from the axle to the center of gravity of the item and multiply that distance in inches times the weight of the item. Assign a positive sign to this number if the item is being added to the trailer. Assign a negative sign to this number if the item is being removed from the trailer.

(3) Add or subtract the numbers obtained in steps 1 & 2 as their signs dictate to obtain one number. (If that number is positive it indicates that there will be additional weight on the tongue, if it is negative it indicates there will be less weight on the tongue.)

(4) Divide the number obtained in step 3 by the distance in inches from the axle to the center of ball cup of the hitch. The number obtained is the amount of weight that has been added to the tongue load (positive sign) or subtracted from the tongue load (negative sign). Simply add or subtract this number (as the sign dictates) to/from the dry tongue weight to obtain the new loaded tongue weight.

To include water in the various tanks in these calculations multiply the gallons times 8.33 to obtain the weight of the water and then follow the steps above. If the trailer has tandem axles, all measurements should be taken from the mid-point between the axles. Remember anything you add to or remove from the trailer will affect the tongue loading, so you need to try to estimate weights and distances fore or aft of the axle for all items (food, clothes, tools, etc.) you plan to carry in order to come up with an accurate tongue loading.

Hope this helps in making your decision.

__________________

Ann & Bill Anderson
Houston, TX.
2011 DRV ES38RS4 - On order
2007 Frtlnr M2-106 Chariot



RV-Dreams Community Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 4
Date:

Thanks for an EXCELLENT explanation. That will help me alot. Hopefully this "tongue weight" problem can be solved by "Redistribution of the Weight". Now, if the government doesn't "Redistribute my Wealth" I'll be on the road soon!

__________________


RV-Dreams Family Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 26
Date:

Jim,

As an example of what I was referring to in my earlier post maybe this will help.

Assume:
(1) Bunks to be removed weigh 250# and their center of gravity is 100" behind the axle. Then 250 X 100 = 25,000 and since this item is behind the axle and being removed from the trailer assign a postive sign (+) to the number thus +25,000.

(2) Freezer to be added weighs 350# and its center gravity is 123" behind the axle. 350 X 123 = 43,050 and since the weight is being added behind the axle assign a negative (-) sign to the number thus -43,050

(3) Propane to be added weighs 60# and its center gravity is 180" in front of the axle. 60 X 180 = 10,800 and since the weight is being added in front of the axle assign a positive (+) sign to the number thus +10,800

(4) BBQ grill and tools stored in the external storage compartment weigh 150# and their center of gravity is 155" in front of the axle. 150 X 155 = 23,250 and since the weight is being added in front of the axle assign a positve (+) sign to the number thus +23,250.

Adding/subtracting these four numbers as their signs dictate yields the following: +25,000 - 43,050 + 10,800 + 23,250 = 16,000. Lets assume the distance from the axle to the center of the ball cup on the hitch is 210". The final calculaton would be 16000 divided by 210 = 76, since this is a positive number this the weight that was added to the tongue load because the addition/removal of the items above.

This is only a sample calculation but hopefully it will clarify my earlier post.



__________________

Ann & Bill Anderson
Houston, TX.
2011 DRV ES38RS4 - On order
2007 Frtlnr M2-106 Chariot



RV-Dreams Community Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 9
Date:

Do it the easy way... Install the Class V hitch. 
Problem solved.


__________________


RV-Dreams Community Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 4
Date:

Bill, another AMAZING & INFORMATIVE post. The two dealers that I WAS thinking of buying from hasn't done diddly to solve this matter, but you have!!!

I think I'll take my tape measure and do some measurements on the actual trailer. I assume I should use the distance between the axles as my "0" point (fulcrum) from which to make my measurements. The biggest hitch I've found so far is Hidden Hitch (has a 1200 lb. receiver max with WD) and I just got a quote from Reunel (sp?) (has a 6000 lb max) for $1200. Thanks again for you help! Jim

__________________


RV-Dreams Family Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 26
Date:

Jim,

That is correct, use the mid-point between the axles as the starting point for your measurements.

__________________

Ann & Bill Anderson
Houston, TX.
2011 DRV ES38RS4 - On order
2007 Frtlnr M2-106 Chariot

Page 1 of 1  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.

Tweet this page Post to Digg Post to Del.icio.us