30 AMP TO 50 - RV-Dreams Community Forum

GENECOP · RV-Dreams Family Member

30 AMP TO 50

Luvglass · RV-Dreams Family Member

Not an expert in any way, but I think the outlets may be out of phase and that is what is causing the trip.

TxYellowRose · RV-Dreams Family Member

Really out of my depth of knowledge here, but...

Here at home we have a 30 amp outlet. We use a 30-to-50 amp adapter to run basic electrics in the 5er when loading up for a trip. Basic means a few lights and the fridge. No way would we run the A/C on this setup, but it works for what we need.

Just a thought...again, out of my depth but it's my

Good luck!

53 Merc · RV-Dreams Family Member

Actually, I think Fred has it about right. If the GFI at the post is tripping, it does indicate a phase error. If the GFI in your rig is tripping, it is really a problem.

But, the question is, why do you need the "cheater" now. Surely you are not air conditioning at present. You can effectively run anything you need to on 30 amps, as long as it ain't AC and water heater and microwave and hair dryer all at once.

Do a search on the forum for a listing of power usage per piece of equipment, then you can power manage and have a good time. But, get the manager to check phase of the post and see if that is not the problem. Have fun.

-- Edited by 53 Merc on Saturday 1st of May 2010 10:51:33 PM

lmcallis · RV-Dreams Family Member

I've read many different places that a "cheater" won't work if one of the legs is plugged into a GFI outlet. The GFI circuit measures the current running through the hot wire out of the outlet and compares it the current running back into the outlet on the neutral wire. If the currents are different, it trips the GFI breaker. What's happening with the cheater is some of the hot current from the GFI plug gets returned through the 30A connector. Currents don't match, and the GFI pops.

So, if the box is wired for 50A as the CG owner says, and there isn't a 30 amp breaker where you plug in at the box, then you can still pull 50A out of the 30A plug. Just plug in a 30A to 50A dog bone connector and plug in your 50A cable. If there is a separate 30 amp breaker and 20 amp breaker at your box, then you're out of luck.

I wired a separate circuit for the washer, dryer, and bathroom outlet in my 5th wheel so most places I'll run a separate cord to the 20A GFI outlet. Then I've got 20A in the laundry/bedroom, and 30A for the rest of the rig.

Lance

-- Edited by lmcallis on Saturday 1st of May 2010 08:56:18 PM

Grant · RV-Dreams Family Member

I have a "cheater" box and Lance is correct. I don't understand the electrical why of it but, was told when I bought mine that "cheater boxes" will not work if one of the outlets is GFI.

Apparently, there is no work around for this.

Jim01 · RV-Dreams Family Member

Be careful with those "cheater boxes". When you use one, you may end up with 50amps available if the CG box is wired with heavy enough wiring.

But, when you plug into a "true" 50amp outlet, you actually have 50amps on leg A and 50amps on leg B. which adds up to a total of 100 usable amps available for your RV. When you use a cheater box, you are dividing the available 50 amps between leg A and B.

In other words, if you use a cheater box the most you can expect is 1/2 of the amperage that you would have available compared to a 50 amp outlet.

Jim

GENECOP · RV-Dreams Family Member

Update, I researched the cheater a bit more, company states "WILL NOT WORK WITH A GFI OUTLET", does not say why, probably some of the reasons that where mentioned here. I will ask the owner to change the GFI to a reg outlet, thanks for the feedback, Gene

Old Snipe · RV-Dreams Family Member

You're right, Gene, it won't work with a GFI outlet.

I bought one several years ago and it worked great. But more and more campgrounds are being modernized to the GFI configuation on the power poles so mine sits in a compartment gathering dust.

I'd get rid of it, but one never knows when you might be at that one campgound that doesn't have the GFI ciruit.

Best Regards!

Bill and Linda · RV-Dreams Family Member

Hi Gene:

Well, I guess it has been said, but “cheater boxes” only work if the 30 and 20 amp outlets are NOT properly wired / protected – that is with GFI fault protectors.

So if they do work, in some people’s opinion, they are dangerous due to the lack of GFI protection. (GFI stands for Ground Fault Interrupt.) Please keep that in mind concerning the rewiring of the outlet. “Ground” is a very good thing when dealing with electrical safety.

I know why they won’t work with a GFI outlet, but that’s a lot of techo talk I won’t bother anyone with today – but there is a good, safety reason why they don’t work – the GFI is doing its’ job protecting you. It knows there is something wrong and so it "trips" off the power like it is designed to do.

Back in my older working days doing remotes we did a lot of things with “electricity,” and got away with it, but that doesn’t mean something bad couldn’t happen. Same thing with these boxes.

Safe travels.

Bill

TXRVr · RV-Dreams Family Member

After reading the thread, I got to thinking that one way to take advantage of the 110v/20A circuit would be to add a flow thru socket on my rig similar to the one I have for satellite cable and connect with a heavy duty extension cord. Placing the socket in the living room area would make it available for small appliances like computer, fan, chargers, etc.

But I wonder if that would actually give me separate 20 and 30A service. I know it provides the voltage, but perhaps not the amps. I assume that underground wiring would not have three separate set of wires for 50, 30, and/or 20A. That being the case, I would be robbing amperage from the 30A plug when also hooked to 110V. Am I correct or not?

-- Edited by TXRVr on Thursday 13th of May 2010 10:08:41 AM