2015 RV-Dreams Boondocking Rally - February 8 - 15, 2015 in Ft. Ogden, Florida. Click Here For More Info - SOLD OUT!!
2015 RV-Dreams Spring Educational Rally - April 27 - May 3, 2015 in Sevierville, Tennessee. REGISTRATION IS NOW OPEN! - Click Here For More Information & To Register!
2015 RV-Dreams Family Reunion Rally - May 23 - 31, 2015 in Marion, North Carolina. REGISTRATION IS NOW OPEN! - Click Here For More Information & To Register!
2015 RV-Dreams Fall Educational Rally - October 6 - 11, 2015 in Lake Leelanau, Michigan. Save the dates! REGISTRATION will open this winter.
This will be our first ever winter in an RV. As many of you know, Jo and I are "static" full-timers here in the Oklahoma City area. As such, we have the luxury of making our hookups more permanent than traveling full-timers. What I need from everyone is an idea as to whether my thought process is overkill or underkill.
My thought was to buy the polyethelene foam tubes at Lowes that are split down the length on one side of the tubes, put our two hoses (one fresh water and one black tank flushing hose) into separate tubes, and then put both of those assemblies into something like a 4-inch PVC pipe to add some more protections to tubes and hoses as well as add some additional "dead space" as insulation.
The PVC/hose/foam tube assembly would then run from our underground faucets with some kind of insulated box placed over the faucet enclosure, allowing the end of the 4-inch PVC to be covered with that box. Then the end of the PVC/hose/foam tube assembly at the fifth wheel would be placed up into the bottom access hole of the utility compartment with some insulation added within that compartment.
In the past, we've been known to wrap plumbing with heat tape and wrapped insulation for protection from the cold. However, I don't think it would be a good idea to put the heat tape directly onto the hoses.
Would I have problems with heat tape placed within the 4-inch PVC to help add some heat without damaging the polyethelene foam tubes? Or, would all the above without the heat tape be sufficient?
OR, are there any other ideas as to how to protect the water hoses without having to take them up when it freezes?
All of our advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. A happy wife is one who can take a shower EVERY morning.
Thanks in advance.
Terry and Jo2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB32008 Ford F450 2010 Ford F150 as Tag-along or Scout Two minor works in progess....pictures taken over the years and a webblog:Our photos on PhotobucketIgnoring the Barking Dogs - Terry's Blog
'13 Ram 2500 Hemi pulling '12 Chaparral Lite
-- USAF Retired -- Full-timing since December 2007 - Part-Timing since July 2011http://http://travelingrvwx.com/
Bill Joyce, 40' 2004 Dutch Star DP towing a 2012 Chevy EquinoxJournal at http://www.sacnoth.comFull-timing since July 2003
2012 Chevy 3500HD DRW's (SOLD)Pressure Pro System (SOLD) Trailer Saver TS 3 (SOLD)
2010 Mobile Suites 38 RSSB 4 #5057 (Sold)
Phil and Rudeehttp://workinrvers.blogspot.com2002 Winnebago Journey DL2007 Dodge Dakota2011 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide Ultra Limited
Phil Bob wrote:Not sure why you would want to leave your flush hose hooked up all winter. Convienance? I would just get mine out and flush the tanks every other dump or so and then just kept it rolled up in the basement (heated area).I did not use my plastic slinky sewer hose in the winter. I purchased 3" pvc pipe,fittings and a rubber sleeve to connect it to the 5th wheel. This way I could maintain a good drain angle and could leave the grey tanks open all winter.
Not sure why you would want to leave your flush hose hooked up all winter. Convienance? I would just get mine out and flush the tanks every other dump or so and then just kept it rolled up in the basement (heated area).I did not use my plastic slinky sewer hose in the winter. I purchased 3" pvc pipe,fittings and a rubber sleeve to connect it to the 5th wheel. This way I could maintain a good drain angle and could leave the grey tanks open all winter.
Yes, it is convenience. In our case our water supply is just underground within a "case" with two faucets. If I run the two hoses, with both insulated and heated, I would only need to lift the "cover" to turn on the flush system hose faucet.
We are going to get one of the Eze-Kleen sewer systems as they are PVC and with a downslope, we should never have an issue with a sewer line freezing up and no little "valleys" such as would be in a stinky-slinky to catch water and build up.
Since we won't be moving much, it won't be an issue with some hookups being semi-permanent.
Here in Wyoming (-30F) we use heat trace and insulation on the incomming water line with abt 3ft of heat trace in ground box and 3ft in our water box on the side of our Montaina 3750FL. I also bought two remote temperature guages from walmart and put one in each box so I know what the ground and waterbox temperatures are.
Advise: Do not put fiberglass insulation in the ground box with the faucet, if you have a leak its an awful frozen mess if you get a leak in the box. Gotta chip it out by hand. Not a pretty sight.
Randy & Jackie
If you decide to get the Pirit water hose, make sure the male end is below the compartment. The sensor is on the male end. I also had a Pirit and it froze up. They did send a replacement which is still in the box. I went to Home Depot and made my own fresh water hose. I cut the hose down to a lenght that would reach the coach, put heat tape on, the split foam and then wrapped plastic around it all and was fine in the Kansas winters. As far as the flush hose, I would dig it out when needed and hook it up, flush the tank then drain the hose and put it away. For the sewer, Home Depot. 3" PVC pipe, 1 PVC elbox and 1 rubber elbow. Alot cheaper then the eze-kleen system. I also put a electric heater in the basement blowing on the water manifold and a temp sensor in there so I could monitor the temps.
Doris and Dave2005 Winnebago Vectr2013 Ford Focus Toadwww.doris-and-dave.blogspot.com